(Images via Vogue)
If you’ve spent any time browsing the pages of OPT, you’re probably already well aware of my appreciation for Narciso Rodriguez‘s work at New York Fashion week, and his stunning, minimalist collection for the F/W 2017 season was one of the more enticing jewels that sparkled quietly, but was all the more alluring for it (much like what we saw at The Row).
Like that house, too, Mr. Rodriguez’s work came in a fairly minimalist palette, with black, grey, white, and cream sometimes seasoned with one of this season’s favourite hues–a kind of yellow mustard-y saffron. Although there were some terrific dresses (especially those gunmetal grey creations that shone under the light) for day and night, it was probably the separates that most spoke to me, such as a sheer black top with sharp lines demarcating a bra-like shape underneath several layers, as well as the skirts that featured a kind of garter-like strap peeking out from the high slits.
Also like The Row, there were delightful outerwear pieces, including a number of tailored, austere coats in the limited colour options, and although the just gently-flared trousers that barely grazed along the ankles, evoking the seventies just-so-slightly, suggested in one sense a rather straightforward, working woman’s collection, thanks to the carefully-crafted slits, v-necks that plunged nearly to the navel, and the aforementioned saucy slits and transparencies actually rendered Mr. Rodriguez’s woman a much more sensual creation for fall than one might initially have read.
And that’s the power of minimalism; it really makes the viewer take the time to respect things like cut and fabric without busily worrying about print, texture, and the rest. To consider what the designer is saying, depending on so little. And really, isn’t that intellectual exercise more fun than just having it all spelled out for you before you’ve done more than give the clothes that most cursory of glances?
(Check out the collection video here)