(Images via Vogue)
If you’ve visited this blog in the past, you’re probably aware of OPT’s vaguely extending fingers on the subject of Michael Kors‘s collections as presented at New York Fashion Week. I’ve always been a quirkier kid, looking for designers that incorporate something more playful into their shows. And yet, the older I grow, the more I appreciate Mr. Kors’s work, the way he is able to channel classic Americana so masterfully, and the manner in which he can render such decadent pieces without making them appear overly frivolous somehow.
Anyway, for the F/W 2017 season, it was also nicer to see him expand the age range of his models, working with a handful of older girls (and ‘plus size’ model Ashley Graham, as well!) to his lineup, which, as with the case of The Row, just feels more appropriate when coats are well into the four-figure range.
Explaining that (with theme that has been running through the halls of this NYFW, with so many politically-minded protesting tough ladies), Vogue went on to reflect that “(s)trength was an essential part of his Fall message, alongside seduction. Those are clichéd notions, perhaps, but Kors approached them in less-than-predictable ways…His approach to tailoring was more playful—deconstructed, if not quite truly experimental. Jackets came with rounded shoulders and cocooning proportions, or the sleeves were chopped off above the biceps; skirts were tulip shaped. Kors said it was crucial to build an argument to buy into every single piece.”
Elsewhere, WWD, in addition to praising the casting of Ms. Graham (“she rocked”) as well as the older girls like Carolyn Murphy, Isabeli Fontana, Amber Valleta, and Iselin Steiro, quoted the designer as explaining that “I don’t want to sound like I’m Betty Friedan or Gloria [Steinem]…But listen, I grew with a lot of strong ladies and wanted this whole collection to be about strength and sensuality combined.”
Finally, the New York Times was there to reflect that “(i)n a notably covered-up show, itself a welcome relief after a week of seemingly endless side cutouts and under-boob, he offered voluminous camel and tweed coats, pleated trousers, tulip skirts caught up on one hip, and silver leopard devoré shirtdresses…Instead of crawling under the covers, he seemed to suggest, crawl into this. It’s not a bad option, really.”
Not bad? That’s understating it, methinks. I read many of these looks as sublimely divine.
(Check out the full collection video here)