madrid fashion week: jesús del pozo

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(images via vogue)

okay, so as much as i want to prattle on about the beauty of the s/s 2013 jesús del pozo show at the el capricho park at madrid fashion week, i suppose we have to address something else first.  according to the spanish site hola, the show was held one year to the day after the death of the house founder, and commencing with this collection, noted msn mujer, the label has a new creative director, one josep font.  thus, although many people are referring to the brand as ‘jesús del pozo,’ i’ve also been seeing some ‘del pozo’ or ‘delpozo’, and some burblings about changing the house name.  i’m not totally sure, so we’ll stick to tradition for now, yes?

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but really, sad as i am for the founder’s death, i really don’t want anything to dampen the clothes, which were just so beautiful. and so, for the spring collection, the catalan designer, according to fashion ilogicas, drew on (trans.) “the style of Paris in the 50s,” while both they and several others drew parallels to the christian dior new look, stemming from, in particular, the dramatically-tipped hats the models wore, though i’d say there were definitely some echoes of the more modern dior present, as well.  

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anyway, hola went on to nicely describe some of the shapes, pointing out that they were quite (trans.) “architectural [and] geometric, which enhance the female figure and provide very contrasting volumes, many of which are achieved by working garments inside crinoline structures modeled by hand and superimposed with folds…The shoulder enhanced the contrast with defined waists and a very high waist that lengthens the legs.” 

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meanwhile, elle at once mourned the designer who has passed and celebrated the new one, writing that (trans.) “we see the DNA of the sadly deceased great designer and we miss some of the ingredients that characterize it, but the bitterness disappears when we see an exquisite, refined and ultra-feminine collection. Semi-transparent organza dresses cause us to melt by just looking at them, high-waisted pants are like carrots with tongs, argyle sweaters with colourful chic longilinear silhouettes with open backs, are much like the Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci, discrete and fine floral lace applications make a proposal that dazzles and leaves us all with mouths open.”

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elsewhere, as the blog little fashionistas decreed it a good mashup between the late designer and the new one, we heard yet more comparisons to the big-name houses courtesy of the blog un café con alicia, variously naming the aforementioned christian dior, as well as yves saint laurent and chanel. and really, while i can definitely see the former, and even a bit of ysl, i’m not sure that it isn’t a bit of a reach to conjure chanel into the mix, as well.

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ah, well, anyway.  so to continue on with our parade of critiques, the blog my darling room announced that (trans.) “(t)he Essence collection is inspired by the classic couture, very feminine garments with silky textures, perfect volume, pleats and floral prints…Sheer dresses of different lengths and with [differing] back necklines, ruched pants with high waists, and complemented by a flat brimmed hat.”

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and quite similarly, we heard from the blog the fashion space that (trans.) “(w)e saw long dresses with bare backs, shorts, mini blouses, shorts and high waisted pants, dusty colours mixed with yellow and orange fluorine also klein blue, red and floral patterns. The brimmed hats of spring have that touch of elegance and the cuts of the strapless dresses that  reminded me of Jesús del Pozo, give every woman a look of femininity.”

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elsewhere, neomoda commented that there was (trans.) “(t)ransparency in stiff organza and embroidered carrot pants that frame the silhouette, exaggerating the female form and giving a key role to the waist,” as la voz de galicia described how mr. font (trans.) “opened the parade by setting off white, fitted short sleeved jackets and high-waisted skinny jeans in a simple organza embroidered with flowers, a pattern that has emerged repeatedly accompanied by sweet blouses.”

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and, finally, the blog mia’s fashion scrapbook did an absolutely bang-up job in summing up the materials, palette, embellishments, accessories, and all the rest. in short, it was an absolutely stunning display, and while it’s certainly very sad that the house founder is no longer able to regale us with his creations, hopefully his legacy will continue to mean something, as it definitely has for the upcoming spring collection (see additional runway images at elle & fashion mag).

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(enjoy the full collection video here)