couture week: oscar carvallo

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(images via ny mag)

honestly, i don’t think i’ll ever be able to understand how the press works. after virtually ignoring several designers i’ve found both compelling and worthy of some critical attention (to say nothing of acclaim), suddenly with the onset of the caracas-born designer oscar cavallo’s haute couture debut in paris with his s/s 2013 collection, i found myself practically swimming in articles. and to be sure, i’m glad he’s getting the love.  but why specifically this one, and not some of the others?

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well.  maybe it has something to do with the inspiration and backstory of the range, which reminded me quite a bit of that so-successful (and beloved) jean paul gaultier s/s 2008 haute couture show. for mr. carvallo’s spring turn, according to the venezuelan site el nacional (trans.), “silhouettes are based on ‘marine figures: fish, starfish, fish bones, and all that represents the sea,’ said Carvallo, who endowed his garmentswith  fins and smooth motion, as if they were rocked by the waves.”

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carrying on, the site further explained that the collection was titled ‘la femme poisson,’ and quoted the designer as noting that (again, trans.) “I come from Venezuela, the Caribbean coast, and the sea has always been an inspiration.” and the mexican site zocalo added that he showed (trans.) “iridescent dresses in shades of silver, pearl, pearl gray, light blue, and light pink, resembling finely embroidered scales, algae or marine flowers.”

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meanwhile, when queried about whence his inspiration springs by the french site 20 minutes, the designer responded that he loves the (trans.) “Venezuelan beach. When I returned to Caracas and I walk on the shores of my native country, I am always amazed by all the light that exists nowhere else. Its intensity varies each time and always leaves a different perception of the landscape and atmosphere. I love the bright reflections that emerge from this huge mass of water. My favorite beach is the island of los Roques where I can spend hours with thousands of pelicans around me.”

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and when asked to define his collection in three words, he replied (again, trans.) “(o)rganic, surreal warrior.” elsewhere, the venezuelan site el mundo reported that trans.) “‘(t)he textures are very important. We have worked with technique I’ve been working for a long time in this collection, which is laser-cut leather in the form of fish scales,’ said Carvallo.  This solid coats leather-configured bodices, which together with pleated chiffon skirts incarnate the body and fins of a fish. “

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“The Carvallo women is dressed in laser-cut leather shaped like a fish, decorated with pearl jewelry made of sea shells, and sewed a silken skirts became fins and splendid mermaid princesses or iridescent seabed outputs,” (trans.) declared the venezulean site panorama, quoting the designer as stating that “I’ve always loved the ocean theme. Besides, I dive, and I discovered the wonder of the sea floor. So I wanted to develop this in the collection; the reunion between the sea and the woman,” as the peruvian site terra added that the looks were(trans.) “(a)ccompanied by large earrings or bracelets made of sea shells.”

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and finally, the british blog the upcoming offered that “(t)hrough Carvallo’s vision, he showed ‘the sensuality of the female fish’.  Partly embroidered tulles created wave effects on the dresses. We saw an ocean of material, and got carried away by the currents of an insane and hypnotic ballet of silk fins. He mainly used trimmed fish-skin and made amazing lace fabric, inspired by pearls, starfish and corals. We saw crosscut strips with the pieces of square metal and volumes of thicker clothed skirts. White seashells accessories were common for this theme. In the finale, Carvallo made the walk with a model that wore a breathtaking white dress featuring a glorious headpiece.”

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