NYFW: Anna Sui

(Images via Vogue)

I’ve long been a fan of designer Anna Sui–the brilliant colours, the embellishments, the trims and accessories which by all means should add up to entirely too much and read as ridiculous yet somehow instead flow together as sublimely high fashion: love it.  But I must admit that even those designers we most appreciate have their “off” seasons, and I was a little crushed in my soul to see this happening at Ms. Sui’s F/W 2017 presentation at New York Fashion Week.

I hasten to add that it wasn’t a bad show by any means; no, there were plenty of delights to keep us happy here for a long while, especially those elements, as noted by WWD, which derived “inspiration from the Forties, but it added in a modern touch.” The velvet-y pieces were also lovely, as were several of the looks framed in gold (or gold and black), which seemed ready and entirely appropriate to swagger down a red carpet somewhere.

However, I was less impressed by the striped pieces, which just felt a bit “off” (again), somehow.  They didn’t quite flow with the rest of the collection, feeling sportier and entirely off when otherwise Ms. Sui’s girl felt more glammed up than she has in seasons past (as with the longer skirts and dresses, the high-waisted Lauren Bacall/Katharine Hepburn trousers, and the fur coats.

The colour palette was lovely, though, with deep hunter green, merlot, gold, black, and medium blue a nice touch for fall in the face of all the khaki and grey we’ve been seeing elsewhere. The peep-toe pumps were era-fine, but I must admit to being intrigued by the boots, which felt like a marriage between high-end Victoriana and Dr. Martens (which we’ve seen The Row and Nicole Miller already embracing this season).

So you see? There’s plenty to be happy about, even if it didn’t jive as her hottest season on record. But I almost forgot to mention…those black lace pants worn by Kendall Jenner were indeed one of the best items I’ve seen thus far at NYFW (as well as getting in on the ground floor with everyone else on the planet about Julia Nobis’s yellow raincoat chez Calvin Klein).  So, like, there’s that, too.

(See the full video here)