NYFW: Oscar de la Renta

(Images via Vogue)

I think in the past I’ve expressed my love for Oscar de la Renta often enough I probably don’t have to do it again, but unfortunately, this blog has been on sabbatical since before the designer’s death in 2014.  As we sit, the label is co-helmed by designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who have their own, separate label, called Monse. According to the New York Times, the two showed together (although we’ll only be discussing OdlR here).

Anyway, for the upcoming F/W 2017 season, while the designs reminded me at times of what Raf Simons was offering when he decamped to Christian Dior, the Washington Post was busy opining that “Garcia and Kim are giving the house a new definition of pretty. It is one that is more contemporary, more in sync with the ways in which it is defined in the broader culture. Pretty is sexier, tougher, more coolly confident. At Oscar de la Renta, pretty is no longer epitomized by a frothy dress. The focus is on pants, punchy colors and a more relaxed sensibility….Slim trousers — in black, or in gumball shades of fuchsia and kelly green — dominated the runway.”

Elsewhere, Vogue was busy commenting on the little glitches that happened in terms of curtains and the like before getting to the clothes, which it was less impressed with, arguing that “t lacked in finesse and a certain degree of taste. The strappy sandals were painfully difficult to walk in. Colors were often garish. And some of the pieces, well, it was a real puzzle what they were doing on an Oscar runway—a multicolored diagonally striped sweater and matching leggings come to mind. Where Oscar’s parade of evening dresses used to surprise and delight in its variety, this failed to do so.”

While I’ve learned in my years of writing this site not to be unduly harsh, there is a certain part of me that agrees with them.  To be sure, there were a couple of stunning ball gowns (such as a black number that looked to be encrusted with gold, magenta, and purple jewels spilling from the bodice down to the skirt) and there were some well-tailored separates for day, but in the end, I’d kind of agree that there wasn’t nearly the flavour of Oscar seasons past.  And yes, while I realize a certain portion of that is probably just me missing the late designer, I’d also tend to argue that I’ve embraced some taking over when their predecessors past, such as designer Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.

(Watch the full collection video here)


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