(Images via Vogue)
The house of Tome is a newer one to me, as I don’t really remember designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin’s work on the New York Fashion Week catwalks before. But no matter. For the F/W 2017 season, they fit right in, with the beautiful golden and saffron hues similar to those seen chez Jason Wu, and the impressive casting array a la Christian Siriano, who moved away from just racial diversity–nice as that is–to include models of all shapes and sizes.
Anyway, also similarly to many houses we’ve been seeing this NYFW, the designers opted to bring the democratization of diversity in models together with that pro-diversity platform we’ve been hearing so much of on a political front. Vogue explained that the designers “gave some serious love to the Guerrilla Girls, an anonymous all-female art coalition fighting for women’s rights around the world,” before quoting Mr. Lobo as noting that “(r)ight now, women and their bodies are under attack. I think it’s important, that no matter whether you’re a fashion designer or an activist, that you make a statement and speak whenever you have the opportunity—all of our choices this season were very deliberate.”
After noting the designers’ nods to Planned Parenthood, WWD quoted Mr. Martin as stating largely the same thing, with the addendum that “(w)we put women into the clothes — literally, with outlines of different shapes — to make a visual comment about a woman’s right to choose.”
Some of the dresses reminded me of Stella McCartney’s beloved ‘illusion dress‘, and as she has always been celebrated for her embrace of the feminine form, I can’t imagine it as anything but a compliment here. Indeed, it was nice to see, as we do so rarely, a collection of pieces that actually looked as though it might work for a vaster variety of people than solely those on the catwalk. And, as is usually the case with the former, that larger group isn’t here forced to look like somebody’s fat grandma thanks to the the designers’ realization that some edge, spice, and even sexiness (who knew?) were all things girls more than a plus size or older than 22 would want in their lives.
So as many of the labels prepare to ship from the shores of NYFW onto Paris, it’s nice to have some intriguing new favourites to help keep things interesting here. Let’s hope, too, that they hold true to their message of inclusiveness, beyond just this season’s buzzwords.