NYFW: Sies Marjan

 

(Images via Vogue)

Although the casting of a runway show, is, no doubt, by some measures representative of success. For an eternal favourite this doesn’t mean much, but for some of the lesser well-known designers, it feels something like a ploy to get on the map. Anyway, this was certainly the case for Sies Marjan‘s F/W 2017 collection show at New York Fashion Week, with its stable of industry-beloved veterans, and, of course, the one no one in the moment can shut up about (whom, rather hilariously, was given credit for her catwalk look by The Daily Mail, which proclaimed that the “model left little to the imagination in a sheer beige top which she teamed with shiny gold pants.” Okay, then.

While it is entertaining to sit model-chasing, in some respects it can represent something of a drawback, as while we’re busy checking out faces, we can sometimes be utterly distracted from the clothes.  And here, they were worthy of checking of.  Although the lines and cuts didn’t really match up (save maybe for some of those swooping shapes), I was a little reminded of Haider Ackermann‘s love for all things shiny and the way the silhouettes tend to embrace only a model’s shape, in this case because a large number of looks felt as though they would likely drown shorter girls.

Yet on the other hand, maybe with just a bit of alterations, things would be just fine (hopehopehope) the slinky dresses with a shimmer under the hot show lights with their asymmetrical cuts were a particular draw, while once again (as with so many other collections for the upcoming fall), designer Sander Lak played grab-bag with his materials, working the silky (and sometimes transparent) fabrics together with knits or furs, and some looks featured metallics paired with the matte.

WWD had a grand assessment of the show, proclaiming that “(t)he fall collection had a lot of sporty, glam-rock Tinkerbell moments,” and, after thoughtfully musing on his grand use of colour throughout, added that “(s)porty touches modernized the flou, such as an iridescent dress that was ruched around the bodice but zipped up like a windbreaker. Those details — zippers, snaps, utility pockets — brought the ethereal look down to earth.”

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