(images via vogue)
so i was hoping to end the critical dry spell in moscow by selecting one of the more-beloved russian designers to focus on for the moment, and it appeared to have worked! after my great vexation at several collections receiving a relative lack of reviews, svetlana tegin (Светлана Тегин), who regularly shows and impresses with her work in moscow (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) was back and getting lots of critical love with her french-ifed a/w 2013 range.
in a work i’d definitely call one of her best of late (if not my personal favourite ever) that really reminded me quite a lot of old-school sonia rykiel, the russian site dv trend explained that ms. tegin was inspired by (trans.) “intelligence and rigor…rhythms and the spirit of the ’70s,” as they listed, among other inspirations, the “directors of the French New Wave: François Truffaut, Claude Lelouch, Jean-Luc Godard with their heroines Anouk Aimée, Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider, the sharpness of the senses of ‘Last Tango in Paris‘ by Bernardo Bertolucci, romantic minimalism, free sexuality, and the image of French women, which was formed at the transition of the ’60s to ’70s.”
whew! so a real survey of the cinema culture of that era, but as seen through russian eyes. what could go wrong? well, what that meant for us, according to intermoda, was (trans.) “(i)ntellectual sensuality. The image of a young Parisian woman, wrapped in the disturbing mood of the city, living with eyes wide open in an open coat and beret, sliding to one side, an equally strong thinking about rebellion, freedom and love. Romance, poignancy, fragility and elegance combined with comfort and a little deliberate negligence, and attention to detail.”
in terms of the actual clothes, “(t)he leading colours are red, black, white, gray and brown,” (trans.) explained the russian site the look.”The collection includes not only cropped coats, but coats with high collars that looked as if several sizes too large on the models. A modern girl…Svetlana Tegin sees knitted maxi-dresses, elongated sweaters, fur vests, refined high gloves, classic narrower trousers with arrows in berets, capes and colourful scarves, as well as in high-waisted trousers. The main print in collection is geometric patterns. It is conspicuous and red monochromatic geometry that focuses on the image.”
and, rather similarly, the russian site woman declared that (trans.) “(s)trict black bobbed wigs and berets with pom-poms immediately made it clear to the public that we are going to Paris. At first glance, the quiet collection kept us in suspense from the first minute. The anxious mood of French cinema and the image of the female mystery meant that guests could not get even a second to look away from what is happening on the podium.” *ow! are you panting in anticipation yet?
so they prattled on that (again, trans.) “(e)legant loose cuts were a distinctive feature of the Tegin style. Things are made of the finest cashmere and knitwear looked relaxed and refined at the same time. Especially memorable was the black cashmere dress with a row of small buttons on the back – succinctly and sensible. The main colours of the collection are quiet and very urban black, ‘milk chocolate’, pale pink, pale white, flesh, and many shades of gray….The evening part of the collection consisted of aerial light dresses with strips of large black sequins. At the end of the show, Svetlana Tegin herself came to the podium in one of these dresses under incessant applause.” so really…what more could we ask for? (see additional runway images at red designers & eclectic-magazine)