(images via lfw)
oh, gumdrops! so it’s always going to be kind of hit-or-miss when it comes to encountering names we know at lviv fashion week, given that the event is definitely more low-key than its more famous kiev sister (in terms of ukrainian fashion, that is), but all the same, as i have announced before, there are a few designers we’ve gotten to know cropping up with at least some measure of frequency at lfw, and, rather interestingly, one of these is a designer i’ve actually touted in the past (see a/w 2011 & s/s 2013) as being one of the best that lviv has had to offer. aha!
anyway, with that dramatic build-up, let me tell you straight away that the designer in question is one viktor cherkaskyy (Віктор Черкаський), whose work has had some lovely execution and creativity to it, whilst at the same time always remembering to check the ‘wearable’ box on the other end–something which, given the smaller and more, yannow, like, ‘direct to wear’-style of the event, seems particularly important here. and that’s what he brought forth once again for the a/w 2013 season, albeit with a dramatic and romantic edge that was also rather refreshingly sophisticated (in these days of too many sweatpants, methinks).
alors. in terms of his inspiration for the upcoming fall, mr. cherkaskyy opted for a rather unexpected source, and while we heard the lfw site explaining that it was a “collection inspired by coffee colours,” going a little bit further, the ukrainian website zik related that the range was titled ‘cappuccino’ and added that (trans.) “(a)ccording to the designer, by the name ‘cappuccino’, the intention was to beat coffee, milk and foam.” so i suppose all of the froth and excess of ruffles, layering of fabrics, ruching, and the like are meant to express the process of mixing and creating the drink? i like it!
and so, that site went on to relate that we witnessed (again, trans.) “dresses, suits, coats [which were all] classic, diluted with a little glamour,” and that the pieces were largely executed in chiffon, lace and leather, to which i’d like to add that there was definitely some silk action, and possibly also some type of wool suiting materials for the many sharp suiting-type options that clattered their sophisticated way along the catwalk. indeed, he needed a few textiles with a bit more structure to hold some of his complicated draping exercises, which manifested in my personal favourite look, a sculpted jacket with an artfully pleated peplum, a wide neckline and bold lapels (but no collar!), which was teamed–as a rather adventurous suit–with a long, matching skirt featuring a high slit along one leg. almost office appropriate…and yet, not quite. ahhhhh.
well! then, as some final critical commentary (because there were more than usual turning out for this designer), the lviv express chimed in that (trans.) “(t)he designer suggested women wear elegant dresses that accentuate graceful silhouettes and bodies with jackets with a deep neckline and long skirts….Feminine and yet strength is added to the looks with the leather products….The luxurious ruffles on dresses or jackets create new forms and images, expressing the diversity of women. The designer creates very romantic images, and also uses a light, semitransparent fabric.The whole collection is characterized by a classic style that is typical of Cherkaskyy. Such clothing is especially for women who are in business life.”