(images via lfw)
so in case the name didn’t tip you off (and it should have), i’ll give you another hint: all of that red and white! no? well. indeed, here we are with one of the many visiting names to lviv fashion week, the polish designer kamila gawrońska-kasperska, whose f/w 2013 range represents our first introduction to her work, as well! anyway, as the designer is currently based out of warsaw and apparently also showed her autumn collection at one of poland’s various fashion events, and thus, we’re borrowing some of their commentary (which is a lot more plentiful of course) to give us the background info we need to limp through.
right then, good times indeed! so, in their rather clipped manner, we were informed by the ukrainian site fashion media that the designer showed (trans.) “clothing inspired by Catholicism,” for the upcoming season, although on-hand to give us some more (ahem) helpful information was the polish site textil, which explained that it was (trans.) “inspired by Orthodox icons and Byzantine liturgy, and above all, the Villa dei Misteri…Geometric embroidery is done on a rigid, brushed wool to reflect light and are taken directly from the Orthodox icons. The forms of the clothes are stiff, heavy, cleaned of all decorations, noble and severe, based on the rectangular structure.”
they carried along to inform us that the range was filled with rectangular shapes, while the polish blog 4 makeup actually expanded on the designer’s inspiration even further by relating that we witnessed (a trans.) “vision of chic women in…well-tailored trousers, elegant capes, sensationally emphasizing feminine shapes and proportional dresses and coats. ‘Villa dei Misteri‘ is a painting by Jerzy Nowosielski that evokes the mysterious ruins of the frescoes of Pompeii of the Dionysian mysteries and rituals. Kamila has used these themes to make Eastern liturgical rites and the native iconicity of Byzantium. In combination with sexual tension and colours straight from the Nowosielski work, all the elements have created an intriguing set of inspiration.”
a-ha! so now i see. anyway, following along this path set out for them, the polish site kobieta added that ms. gawrońska-kasperska’s work was (trans.) “limited to three colours – white, red and black. The collection delights with cloaks with wide flanges (reminiscent of vestments), and jackets embroidered with the Equal crosses, beautifully raising the profile of the necklines of dresses and blouses divided into zones – emphasizing the soft waist shapes with contrasting fabrics.” and then, finally, there was elle, weighing in that (trans.) “(t)he result is a stylish and feminine collection, almost perversely elegant. High-waisted, perfectly cut trousers with white and red highlighted the shapely figures of the models, and transparent, bloody flesh-colored tops and bared a lot more than befalls the smart women.”
prattling along, they reflected that the designer (again, trans.) “has made close to the classical form of capes, coats and dresses,” and while they went on to praise her rather extensively, they admitted (almost with a smugness, it would seem) that the collection “for many was incomprehensible.” so i guess that keeps her close to the insiders, those which ‘get it,’ while the rest of the kids just…can’t. but has fashion become such a snobby high art? isn’t it ultimately supposed to be for all of us? i mean, i understand that it isn’t, that it’s a prestige sport, and all the rest, but i do find that kind of tedious. i mean, ultimately, it’s not a club that can keep one out, if they’ve only the money. and that i do find kind of funny, when it comes to all of those prada snobs and the like. they’ve got to share their precious label with whomever has enough cash on hand to grab a pair of shoes. and…okay, maybe i understand that’s what holds fans of ms. gawrońska-kasperska’s aloft. um hm. okay…carry on then, i guess (hehehehehe)….(see some additional runway images at demotix)
(check out some video action here)