(images via intermoda)
yes, yes, yes, i’m aware that we’re trying to stay off of opening up new channels to travel down when it comes to russian fashion, mainly because we’ve so many already required to follow each season already, but…hmm. i don’t know what to say, save mainly maybe these russian kids should stop turning out so much enticing fashion already. besides, you know how i’m a sucker for things that look like a mashup between crafty, ethnic, vintage-y, and nerd/grandma-chic, and that’s basically all the things flora mazi‘s (Флоры Мази) a/w 2013 exhibition at moscow fashion week was about.
or maybe i should say seen as through my eyes, anyway. in terms of the designer’s actual inspiration, the various critical sources i found were a little varying, with the russian procapitali$t, for instance, claiming that this was (trans.) “(a) new interpretation of the female image,” whist tossing out names of artists such as auguste rodin and michelangelo, which would seem to suggest that sculpture played at least some part.
however, on the other hand, the ukrainian site hochu reflected that the autumn show was (trans.) “a trek to the East, where the beauty of the mysterious strangers, wrapped in silk fascinates and captivates,” so there you go. maybe it was a little of both, although admittedly, i could see the silk road playing some role here. anyway, they nicely carried on that the clothes “are the modern incarnation of the traditional oriental style. Dresses that traditionally can only expose your neck and thin hands are made of the most luxurious velvet, flying silk and lace, studded with semi-precious stones and pearls and embroidered with gold and silver threads.” yeow!
and in perhaps my favourite critical turn (seriously, you’re not going to be able to say no to this), the russian site trendy declared that these were (trans.) “things for grandmothers or brothel-style,” and maybe that’s why i’m so enthused. they all look like items that might be worn at a tiger lillies show, alas! we have a winner! meanwhile, intermoda described the designer’s muse as (trans.) “(p)roud, independent, [and] confident,” and i guess i could see her as that, although i’m inherently translating her as more artsy, with some calculated risks that maybe don’t always pay off and manifest as one of the aforementioned maybe not-so-nice (depending on your perspective) suggestions, yet also can alternately come off as rather crafty, vintage-y, or bohemian, perhaps.
then, as a final thought (or set of them) and giving some nice background on the designer (it was apparently her debut in moscow this season), the russian site mode-art opined that (trans.) “(t)he designer definitely has concentrated on the revival of femininity in its original interpretation: accented waist, the right length of pieces…Flora’s collection carefully approached and emphasized femininity without going into a possible vulgarity…The viewer’s attention is entirely focused on the rich pattern dresses….It seems that this time the designer has found his inspiration in the Paris fashion of the 18th and 19th centuries: the lush lace ruffles, male bowler-type hats, knitted coats and elongated jackets.” yeow! just the things i love, too. so there. and i think she’s one worthy of watching, whatever anyone else says. but yes, i’ll admit i love a little prosti-grandma style after all, too.
(watch the full catwalk show video here)