(images via mbfwj)
yes, yes, the good news comes that we’re quite close to the end of our coverage of tokyo’s japan fashion week, and with it, as it inevitably means, all the best stuff (at least, in opt’s estimation) comes pouring out. in this instance, that’s edition: alice auaa (アリスアウアア), and the label’s a/w 2013 range, which is surprisingly only the third time we’ve seen designer yasutaka funakoshi’s work (see also a/w 2012 & s/s 2013), but as you can probably rather easily understand, it has made a lasting impression.
right, then. so this time around, oh! oh, my! how you can imagine my pleasure that the designer opted to choose that which is my personal favourite myth from ovid, the story of arachne, or, as the japanese site fashion snap put it, a (trans.) “transformation story,” (although i think that might actually double as the name of the collection) which you should probably just read in whole rather than my trying to do it justice here (in short, arachne challenges athena/minerva to a spinning contest, and after she kills herself, athena/minerva takes pity on her and brings her back to life as a spider). *ow.
alors. as you can imagine, then, the art/imagery of weaving and of the spider was basically fingerprinted everywhere throughout the collection, of which the blog paint with stars has some amazing images to correspond to the various dramatic exits, and they pointed out that, as ever, the designer was on-hand to construct some very gothic interpretations of the story. just so you know, that’s more of an alice auaa than an ovid thing, but whatever, i found it on the whole a lovely, wearable interpretation of the myth, if maybe less playful than the works of seasons past.
anyway, according to that amazing-amazing japanese site fashion press, the designer worked with a bevy of materials, included leather, velour, fur, knitwear, velvet, and sculpted crinoline, and of course the textures were a big part of the story, the girls often looking as though they were just emerging from some deep, dark cave, with the fur and textured webby pieces trailing along as though at least partially streaming from their own bodies. now, i didn’t like some of the more, like, hot topic-esque moments, like the giant crucifix necklaces and such, but maybe i shouldn’t be so picky, eh?
then, finally, style wylde chimed in that the range “was a perfect example of how Funakoshi transforms his passion into fashion art. Designed around a dark fantasy where creatures emerge from an enormous web and float like phantoms down the runway, the pieces were elaborately imaginative with leathers giving way to fur accents, knit pieces spun from silky yarns that appeared no heavier than spider-web, and tons of classic gothic staples such as boned corsets and long ruffled skirts. Perhaps not intended for the more meek fashion follower, Alice Auaa is definitely designed for a unique taste. But for those who are fans of the label, Funakoshi’s work is the epitome of how to do gothic correctly; with beauty, attention to detail and never opting for anything less than luxury.” yes, yes. i think that’s probably the perfect take on the subject, non? (see additional runway images at twisted lamb & japanese streets)
(watch the full fashion show video here)