japan fashion week: somarta

(images via style)

honestly, i have kind of a time when it comes to picking favourites out of japanese fashion, as there are just so many different types of designers and totally complex factors to consider, but after a good number of seasons (see a/w 2010, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) following the label, i’d certainly have to say that somarta (ソマルタ) ranks at least somewhere near the top of my list.

anyway, for the brand’s a/w 2013 presentation at tokyo’s japan fashion week, i must admit that i actually found things to be toned down and pared back a bit, as well as maybe feeling a bit tougher (especially than last season’s eternally precious aesthetic) than we’ve seen the house in the past, although this is by no means meant as a negative (although honestly, i was kind of missing some of the somarta hair, finding the sideswept ‘dos, yannow, a little meh).

right, then. so the japanese site fashion snap explained that the range was titled ‘crystal flower,” while adding that (trans.) “(t)he theme of this season is an image taken from a crystal,” which quite frankly sounds quite a lot like chanel’s crystal-laden extravaganza for the a/w 2012 season, but which was actually more of an exploration on the period of art deco, but as seen through designer tamae hirokawa’s eyes, of course, so heavy on the textural elements and fabulously-crawly stockings.

the japanese site apparel-web says that the labeled wanted to focus on more geometric motifs this season, as a kind of antithesis to what was up for the spring, and, in noting that the work of architect frank lloyd wright (who was, as we know, a big supporter of the arts and crafts movement) informed to collection, also added thatthe  (trans.) “theme was clothed in the hardness of mood-specific mineral and stone. The[re was] heavy use and non-knit material, such as leather and fur.”

then, finally, “(t)exture variety, jacquard and beads, and cutting, such as a printed hard concept basis of the crystal flower,” (trans.) were the main themes of the day, explained fashion press, adding that the designer also worked with “materials such as luxury mink, tulle, [and a] gloss metallic that looks like a very thin steel.” in the end, it was a lovely show, with many desirable pieces, but i hope you don’t hate me when i say that i rather missed the work of seasons past, because although i can always appreciate a brand moving forward, there was something a little cold here, and even if a little dolly-girlish, i missed the warmth and playness that was so inherent in the spring range.

(enjoy the full fashion show video here)

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