(images via vogue)
so honestly, at best, opt has been kind of hit-or-miss when covering the work of aurelio costarella (see s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, s/s 2013, a/w 2013), if largely because homeboy mainly focuses his aesthetic around those giant, sculptured, often tulle-and-crinoline-ifed red carpet creations that perhaps marchesa is the best generally known for, and which i tend to personally be a bit hesitant about going all-in for, as they often teeter precariously on the ‘one strip of lace or rosette too many’ territory. although! i have to proclaim right now that mr. costarella’s s/s 2014 show in sydney was to me, thoroughly beautiful and his best we’ve seen yet.
alors. in a pre-show interview with marie claire, the designer explained that “(t)he collection is entitled RETROSPECT: Being my 30th year in the Australian Fashion Industry, the collection is a look back at where I’ve come from, and a look forward to where I am going, as a designer. It continues to explore the themes of light, architecture, nature, art and music – recurring themes from past Aurelio Costarella collections. This season I have been inspired by the work of artist Waldemar Kolbusz and the dark, haunting, passionate vocals of Grace Woodroofe. I’m so fortunate to have them both collaborating with me on my MBFWA presentation.”
and as style hunter gasped that the “collection featured intricate embroidery and embellishment in both floor length and above the knee gowns that compliment and enhance the female silhouette. We saw bold shoulders and structured lines using a pallet of chartreuse, emerald and pastel tones,” fab sugar similarly declared them “red carpet worthy gowns rich with embellishment to rival that of any couture house. Asymmetrically tiered tulle skirts added drama to sequinned bodices, waterfall draping made chic cocktail dresses landuid in a 1940s way and nipped-waistlines and tulle-draped corsets injected a sense of romance to the mash up of ready to wear and couture creations.”
then, according to moustache magazine, “(t)he designer has stated previously that he ‘does not do trends’, however this collection was on target with an array of colours and the mixing of textures. The showing was a beautiful complement of music, art, and fashion that merged the mediums to produce of cohesive image,” while we heard sassy bella chirping that “(k)nown and adored for a trademark aesthetic of embellishments and detailing, each look embodied this theme, and the romantic silhouettes of the ready-to-wear and couture looks achieving a look of sophisticated chic. Models were adorned with lace and embellished headpieces that added a sense of dark drama to the look.”
and, in some final thoughts, couturing explained that “Costarella’s collection featured his trademark embellishments, draping and feathers. Based on a palette of black, deep turquoise, taupe and silvers, Costarella presented beautiful cocktail dresses and long flowing gowns. Fitted leather dresses and strapless dresses heavy with sequins added interesting textures. Full face masks made from netting and delicate beading added another dimension to the presentation.” really, it was lovely, and i’ll give him bonus points for branching out into a few day looks, even if it was the ephemeral evening gowns that deservedly drew most of the attention.
(watch the presentation video here)