lviv fashion week: marta wachholz

(images via lfw)

yes, that’s right kids, i know it has taken a cool minute, but finally here we are! welcome to lviv! as i’ve stated previously, i was kind of trying to hold back on the floodgates, as i think by trying to cover too many events at once is how we get caught up in never really moving past them, but now that we’ve closed a book or two, we can move into new territory and begin addressing a few different cities. yay, non?

anyway, with that, it seems like the right thing to do to start things off with the f/w 2013 range of designer marta wachholz (Марти Ваххольц), given that we’ve been lucky enough to see her work on a couple of occasions prior (see f/w 2011 & s/s 2012), and with lviv (also sometimes known as lvov) fashion week, we can often be up against an entirely new slew of names (not that that can’t be kind of an enticing thing, too). but i always like to say hello with an old friend, and particularly one that’s showing a collection we can really get behind.

so with that, unfortunately, i have to remind you here that, as we are in lviv, there’s quite bloody frankly not, like, that much back information on the participants, and thus, we usually have to do most everything ourselves. it’s one of the great struggles we face, and honestly, one of the reasons i kind of always have a difficult time in getting through lviv. after all, i generally find that it’s so much more fun if we can understand, like, the artist’s mission statement as we’re looking at the work, you know?

but i digress, and anyway, this probably isn’t the platform for that notion, as happily, there was some background information on ms. wachholz’s present work. and so, according to the lfw site, “(t)he main concept of Marta Wachholz autumn/winter 2013 collection is the transformation of a leaf into a simplified ornamental form and the dynamics of its folding and unfolding. The designer managed to combine classical suit with modern forms, using certain floral elements, smooth lines and adding some mystique to the collection’s spirit.”

carrying on, they added that “(u)pscale materials were used in the collection: genuine leather, high-quality wool, silk, and most surprisingly – plastic net. The collection totally complies with the most peculiar characteristics of Marta Wachholz’s style – perfect cutout, impeccable tailoring and creative approach to each model,” while in the only other critical turn, the ukrainian site fashion media commented that (trans.) “(v)egetable inspiration, leather panels, leaf motifs and coats formed a cocoon in the Marta Wachholz collection.”

hmmm. okay, then. so! in my estimation, although it has been a cool minute (and really, i can’t believe it was that long) since we’ve seen the designer’s last work, she has changed quite a bit in the interim. in lieu of the more modernist, soviet era pieces, i’d definitely wish to argue she took a more classical interpretation this season, with a lot of her looks having a versatility that belied seasonal dressing and expended on in a more timeless sense (the suits and outerwear in particular).

now, maybe some of the pvc-type black patent leather shine (and the leggings in particular) didn’t exactly fall into that same class, but on the whole, i’d say she was at her best when she was keeping things lean and clean, although her leaf motifs were lovely and had a classical aspect to them, as well. really, i also liked that, in lieu of her more ‘one look idea’ range we saw last time, ms. wachholz was working from a more ‘wardrobe’ type of perspective, realizing that her customers aren’t just girls on the catwalk, and as such, need versatile clothes to fit their lives.

and with that, i really can’t think of many complaints i want to venture at the moment. and although i’ve never exactly been displeased with her work, i’d hands-down say this was the designer’s best show we’ve seen yet. it was wearable, charming, pretty, innovative, and yet with the kind of flexibility that could endear many of the pieces to many different kinds of customer, which says, i think, that she’s matured quite a bit in this last year and a half, and is definitely thinking more on the business end of things. but if it turns out sartorially like this, then bring on the commercialism, i say! and honestly, i can’t believe i just said that.

(check out the fashion show video here)

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