spfw: adriana degreas

(images via ffw)

really and truly, i am sorry that i’ve been so slow with my coverage of the various shows, but we’re trucking along, and i try to comfort myself with the thought that in the interim, more information gets published about each individual collection, which we’ll ultimately profit from in our eventual discussions on the shows. does that sound about right? maybe it doesn’t matter. anyway, in what i think is our last turn of swimwear on the são paulo fashion week catwalks, let’s turn to one of my personal favourites in that category, adriana degreas‘ s/s 2014 range!

anyway, although i’m frankly a little surprised, given that i thought we’d known her much longer (and better), we’ve actually only had a couple of talks on the designer previous (for s/s 2012 & s/s 2013), but i suppose it speaks to her talent that she remains with me on relatively little acquaintance. and so, for the upcoming summer, while i was looking through the images, i was a little curious, given that i (and some of the critics) felt a little uncertain as to which decade(s) ms. degreas was meant to be channeling, as there appeared to be quite a few of them.

well! we can allllll relax, because the designer meant things that way. while staged to, as the brazilian site oestilo points out (trans.) “a soundtrack that sent us to the Copacabana ’50s, the bohemian atmosphere filled the catwalk,” and, as ffw explains (trans.), “everything [was brought out] and women of the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s and 1950s,” all walked the runway in swimwear detailing various elements of those decades.

in terms of her actual inspiration, they stated that it was (again, trans.) “Rio Deco, French influences in architecture; Copacabana ’50s, [and] the bohemian atmosphere of the great feasts of the Carioca elite,” and what manifested felt a lot like the pages of some old fashion magazine, in materials such as “heavy satin, tulle, lame and zibeline,” in a rather limited palette (especially for this designer) of mostly classic black-and-white with some various flashes of ballerina pink, silver, coral, and terracotta.

“A cleaner collection without prints and a little embroidery, the designer proposes a season inspired by the art deco architecture of Rio with Parisian elegance,” (trans.) declared vogue. “The parade opens with wonderful pieces in B & W in stripes, asymmetry and unusual geometry made of velvet and transparent tulle. A little ’50s, a little ’60s; the armhole of Bain Couture – as the designer calls it – is increasingly maintaining a certain retro mood on the catwalk. The pink is perfect pair with silver, finishing the best part of the collection.”

meanwhile, quite similarly, the brazilian site closet online praised the simple, yet clever elegance of the opening black-and-white looks, eventually coming ’round to describe how (trans.) “(t)he glamor of the pools in the ancient buildings in Rio are in the hot pants, bustiers, dresses, jumpsuits and ultra low-cut swimsuits. The rain was also present in red floaty kaftans and applications of glitter’ the gloss has appeared with irregular silvery sequined dresses and jumpsuits, creating a modern and chic 3D texture.”

unfortunately, there were a few less impressed, namely the brazilian site (okay, they’re oft difficult to stir) chic gloria kalil, which bitched about various effects of the staging they didn’t believe to be on, but on a more interesting final note, elle quoted the designer as explaining that (trans.) “I wanted to bring back the unexpected, such as the use of materials that are not usually seen in beachwear,” of some of her unconventional choices, but ultimately, i found that not only was this clever, it lent itself to the timeless-yet-vintage beauty of the pieces that we saw. a definite win, don’t you find?

(enjoy the full fashion show video here)

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