moscow fashion week: vitaliya bykova

(images via intermoda)

alright, so. the news of the moment is that opt is still trucking along–or trying to–with the various designers’ work as they showcase at moscow’s assorted fashion weeks, and i really am beginning to suspect that something is afoot this season in the critical department, considering how much that’s been lacking during the fall shows. once again, here we are with a lovely designer, and very little background to show for it.

alas, so we were introduced to designer vitaliya bykova (Виталия Быкова) only last season (s/s 2013), when i was transfixed by her lovely colour palette and delicate and somewhat ethereal femininity, and for the upcoming f/w 2013 season, the good news is that homegirl is keeping up her standards, if a little on the smarter, more tailored side.

in lieu of some of the pastels and pale jewel tones she’d chosen for spring, the current range showed her somewhere between classic and earthy in colour range, as she worked with darker hues like deep sienna, black, foresty green, and navy, with pops of white and blazing red really the only lightness in the otherwise very woodsy display. most of her pieces were monochromatic, and prints were basically abolished from the showing.

anyway, in really the only background turns we received on the subject, my favourite-named (yes, as ever!) russian site, procapitali$t basically concurred with my above assessment, while elsewhere, intermoda weighed in to remark that (trans.) “(c)oncise, simple silhouettes with elements of negligence create an image of the modern business woman.” i’m not sure really what they mean by ‘negligence,’ but whatever, i mostly agree with their thoughts, i suppose.

and finally in terms of the critical statements on the subject, the russian msn lifestyle site (ohlala, you see how high-end we’re going this season? where are so many of the superior russian sites!?) explained that the theme was based around (trans.) “modern life and times in the city,” while adding that we saw “(w)ell-honed pure forms and perfect cuts of suits and urban style dresses.”

again, i pretty much concur, but then, there’s not really a lot there with which to work. anyway, although i imagine that this range could be rather easily overlooked in favour of some of the more flash showings, really, if one looked closer, there were a lot of quite impressive details, from the pleating on skirts and dresses to prim little tucks (and was that a bit of lace?) on a smart white blouse and some gorgeously sculpted peplums on pieces like a marvelous brown tailored frock.

it was also nice (and rather refreshing, i must say) to see the designer working with some more fall-style materials, and while i don’t have an exact rundown, i think we can pretty confidently say that there was a lot of wool at play here, as well as some leather, suede, and silk, and i liked that ms. bykova kept things wintery without resorting to loading down her catwalk in furs, as a lot of kids seem to want to do to spell ‘autumn’ these days (as if we need that to tell us. or, yannow, swimwear, either/or).

so, in conclusion, though i’d quite honestly liked to have more details on the collection, i do think it speaks for itself impressively, and i’m finding ms. bykova to be one of the more exciting new designers we’ve met in moscow over the last couple of seasons. and for all that i liked her last show, i did find this one tighter, more cohesive, better. that’s a lot of improvement in a short amount of time, and though i don’t want to jinx it, i’m going to say right now that i think this bodes some good things. so. yee. for now.

(watch the collection short film here)

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