japan fashion week: melantrick hemlighet

(images via change fashion)

okay, so we’ve actually gotten rather lucky this season in tokyo, methinks, in that we’ve been introduced to a couple of new brands that have regaled us with all kinds of sartorial delights, and another of these is the almost-unpronounce-able melantrick hemlighet (メラントリック ヘムライト), which i’d say was making up for that by definitely winning the fascinator game for the a/w 2013 season at japan fashion week.

anyway, although i didn’t at first realize this, the current fall collection was the label’s debut on the tokyo catwalks, explained the japanese site fashion snap, adding that designer yu-ya was originally of the label bortsprungt, which we haven’t seen since back during the s/s 2011 season, though i feel we can all agree that we see whence the inspiration springs. the site also went on to point out that the current range was titled ‘cirque hall’.

so! much like the ritsuko shirahama show in terms of theme, in some ways, i suppose, although i kind of have to confess, if forced to choose (and indeed, i liked them both very much) that i’m feeling the yu-ya work a little bit more. it might be those stripey tights that win my heart every time, but i also loved all of the asymmetrical circus patches and the like, and, of course, the quirky layers, dancing bear motifs, and contrasting prints.

the japanese site apparel-web reported that (as you can kind of see in some of the images) the ‘runway’ was actually based on (trans.) “a circus tightrope,” although to me it also kind of looked like the balance beam gymnasts perform on, and at any rate, i think we can agree it made for a more performance art-y atmosphere than that to which fashion shows are generally accustomed. and indeed, fashion press confirmed that the designer intended things to be much this way.

prattling along, they added that prints were a big part of the story for the day, noting that the animal motifs included a wolf, as well, while that big red circular shape that i was kind of wondering if was meant to depict the cirque du soleilo‘ logo (really, they look a lot a like!) was actually a circus ball. aha! but ultimately, i found it fun, wearable, and generally fairly charming, if never exactly challenging us in terms of theme–except maybe for the exhibition format. but after all, it’s a new label, and yannow, like, baby steps.

(watch the full fashion show video here)


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