belgrade fashion week: jayne pierson

(images via bfw)

ah, sigh. are you ready to finally close out this rather unsatisfying edition of belgrade fashion week? i’ve tried to save what i felt was the best surprise for last, and was pleased to see the a/w 2013 work of british designer jayne pierson on the podium, and while i know and can appreciate that we should probably be closing things out with a serbian designer, i nevertheless felt that her aesthetic melded nicely with that which we often see in the balkans, and thus, i found her a rather special delight. a bittersweet victory, maybe?

well, hm. anyway, the designer also apparently showcased her collection, titled ‘thalia’, earlier this year in london, and we know how i feel about that, but whatever, i don’t have the energy to be mad just now. and really, i’m pleased we get to meet a new name, and such a charming range, so, like, there. and of course, this also means more press on the subject, which we got, with wales online explaining that the show “is inspired by fairytale and the surreal.”

alors. in one of two articles touching on the subject, wannabe magazine explained that the designer presented as a part of this season’s ‘british day’ at bfw, and they also noted that ms. pierson teamed up with rather eclectic accessories designer/royal college of art student nina khazani (you can read a good article about her pieces at ecouterre), which explains the springs of hair spouting from models’ necklines, fingers, and the like–ms. khazani re-works real human hair into her creations, which i have to admit maybe aesthetically don’t really appeal to me, but then, like, points for imagination, non?

right, so. as far as the clothes themselves, i was surprised to read the oft hard-to-please (and surprisingly, yet delightfully bitchy!) bfw site praising the designer’s attention to form and construction, and for the most part, i’d certainly concur. there was an inherent antiquity to her looks, as if she’d picked up pieces from a costume shop, then reimagined and embellished them, pairing them with totally modernist pieces to create some intriguing juxapositions, such as corset tops worn with contemporary pencil skirts and skinny trousers, and little capes sashaying down the runway next to pairs of basic short-shorts.

on the whole, then, i’d say that ms. pierson played things very, very cleverly. she managed to incorporate some pieces that could easily have overwhelmed her runway or been deemed ‘too fussy,’ and yet, by her careful styling and manipulation of fabric and colour (and never over-burdening her pieces with too much in the way of print or appliques), they all the same never were. it does remind me of a few shows we’ve seen in belgrade, most recently that of tamara paunović, but honestly…i found ms. pierson’s to be better, more polished and skillful in execution. it was a great introduction and, i think, a nice way to end the event, although as i’ve said, i’m really hoping we can see some of our favourites next time out. but still, belgrade always manages to do us some good in the end, don’t you find?

(see the collection’s short fashion film here)

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