australia fashion week: ellery

(images via vogue)

aha! so in one of, like, the only turns during this season’s australia fashion week in sydney, designer kym ellery, in staging her s/s 2014 ellery presentation, opted not to open the show with model julia nobis (yannow, otherwise known as the one everyone has gone for this time ’round), instead somehow managing to snag general runway/street-style favourite, belgian model hanne gaby odiele to walk in her exhibition (alongside ms. nobis, but of course). and, like, yeahyeahyeah, i know ms. ellery is a favourite here, but i was getting some serious rick owens vibes this time ’round.

anyway, that’s all a bit troubling to me, because in the short amount of time we’ve known her (see s/s 2011, f/w 2011, s/s 2013), this problem has cropped up before, most recently with last spring, when i called out the ‘too many bloody similarities’ to lanvin and balenciaga.  nevertheless, the critics trooped in their appreciation, with marie claire describing the “strong, structured gowns, voluminous tops and chic coats in a mostly monochramtic palette peppered with pops of floral, gold and blue. ‘The Renegade collection was born from contrasting archetypes, bandits, baddies and rebels on one-side, and nuns, missionaries and the devout on the other,’ said the brand. ‘This emerging duality blends light with dark, masculinity with femininity and recklessness with control.'”

elsewhere, as style hunter described how “(m)inimalism met a meticulous eye for detail…with gorgeous floral prints bringing to life flared pants and structured dresses. Splashes of white lace and fur emphasised exaggerated shapes, forecasting dramatic lines and oversized outerwear…Statement shoulders and floor-length eastern-style gowns with metallic floral patterns were standouts on the runway as were neutral shades of spearmint, beige, white and black,” bella sugar detailed all the beauty looks as its sister site fab sugar predictably frolicked along, gasping that “(s)atin waist-tied tops and jackets worn at the hips relaxed what could be an otherwise stitched-up silhouette, injecting the lineup with a glamous dose of grunge.”

then finally, weighing in as ever with a bit more sense, the australian site the vine noted that the “collection was said to be inspired by the seminal film Buffalo 66, but it was hard to recognise the characters of Vincent Gallo and Christina Ricci in the clothing on the runway. Instead, the shoulder seemed to be the designer’s starting point when designing for the body: an accentuated cap sleeve on floor-length gowns in the show’s finale; cartoonish, sculptural shoulders that were almost wing-like on deep V-neck shift dresses; and, as with many of her collections, balloon-shaped long sleeves contrasting bear-legged numbers. From here, Ellery capitalised on the design hallmarks she has become known for – the super-flared pants, the round shapes, the matte jersey and silk, the black, white and bronze palette – but didn’t move them forward in any way.”

(see the complete fashion show video here)

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