(images via ffw)
ever one of the more intelligent and quite frankly, challenging labels presenting at são paulo fashion week, that never really lulls one to sleep with easy to read clothes, but instead requires some thoughtful, rather deep analysis (really! check out their archives: a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), neon was back on the runway for the s/s 2014 season at spfw, after sitting last seaons’s insanely moved-up calendar out.
this season, as vogue pointed out, also served as the brand’s 10th anniversary celebration, and for it, they decided to explore a sort of multiculturalism that’s been increasingly popular in fashion, though i’m not quite sure if they meant it (as they probably did) as a testament to brazil’s storied heritage, as well. anyway, as the brazilian site pure trend explained, the range was (trans.) “full of ethnic references, which this time are brought from the east. China, India and Vietnam intersect with Brazilian culture.”
what that translated to for you and me, was that designers dudu bertholini and rita comparato, according to the brazilian site oestilo, showed (trans.) “prints ranging from flowers to urban Indian music and samba. Fabrics like silk, shantung, wool silk, satin, crepe, linen, jersey, mesh and lycra were used…Vivid colours mingled in various outfits including green, pink and orange in large pieces with details in the style of the ’50s, ’60’s, and ’70s, which aspired ethnicity and lightness, with high waisted pantaloons and tunics.”
elsewhere, the designers (trans.) “reaffirm their identity with an ultra-colourful and ethnic collection that celebrates the exuberance of the Neon woman: tops, voluminous caftans, high-waisted trousers, tunics and good swimsuits. The duo…made a mix of beach and city [looks],” reported ffw, also relaying the delightful tidbit that accessories designer christopher alexander was inspired by alexander calder for his pieces, and i think we can probably all agree that there was a definite sculptural quality to his dangling, statement accessories, which included necklaces and neck cuffs, dangling earrings, and colourful vietnamese-style hats, in a bevy of colours to coordinate with the clothes.
on the other hand, elle made more of a point of emphasizing the brazil-vietnam mashup, pointing out that (trans.) “(s)aris, tunics and long skirts made counterpoint with very Brazilian swimwear,” while finally, the brazilian site closet online had a slightly different take to the inspiration, reporting that (trans.) “(i)nspired by Rita Comparato’s trip to India, the duo produced pieces in a palette of warm colours and full of striking patterns of goddesses of the Hindu religion. The pieces were joined in contrast with either leggings or gowns, whitewashing gently over the body, sometimes with just tops and harem-style pants. The Indian identity shared its space with the Chinese, which was represented in the acrylic triangular-shaped hard hats.” either way, it was our requisite challenge for the season, but lucky for it, it was so wearable and was one of the best-looking multicultural shows of recent seasons, methinks. *ow.
(watch the fashion show video here)