spfw: ellus

(images via ffw)

aloha! so! in a slight programming update, i wanted to let you know that, despite any hiatuses we, erm, may have come across, opt is striving all the best it can to keep up with the current influx of shows that you & i are both well aware are coming in as we speak. but! alas, even as fashion rio is upon us (and really, i liked it so much better when it was a precursor to spfw, didn’t you?), we still have some of these backlog of shows to get to, and we’ll try to wrap up a few of them before moving on to the newer, shinier things. okay? but i promise, it will all come right in the end!

in other words, it’s time for us to discuss the ellus s/s 2014 presentation at são paulo fashion week before we turn to second floor in rio de janeiro, agreed? marvelous! so, pray tell, what are we going to see the denim label, which we have in the past (see f/w 2011, s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013, f/w 2013) seen go from basic, rocker-girl cute to edgy materials and high fashion-emulating produce this time round? well. if i must be frank, i’m a little disappointed to admit that they went back to their more basic, commercial roots.

anyway, the collection was titled ‘spice route,’ and although the analysis varied a little bit on what it actually looked like, in terms of the actual inspiration, ffw reported that (trans.) “(a) motorcycle trip through India yielded a good collection for Ellus, with the entire universe of  the motorcycle aesthetic and urban attitude, with a seasoned adventurer already belonging to the brand…Lindsey Wixson opened the show with a… camouflaged jacket and floral pants look, a beautiful pattern that was also seen in some accessories and menswear.”

so although there was generally some quibbling about whether motocross had a hand in any of the proceedings, or the 1970’s did (hint: they did, because don’t they always have to chez ellus?), but i guess i can basically accept all of that as stated. anyway, we could certainly see the hand of some of the global and ethnic-y patterns manifesting, like that faded purple-y-pink motif that reeked of india, along with some of the glam-flash-bang metallics and fringe (although, to be sure, those could have been from any ellus season, i recognize).

well. elsewhere, we heard the likes of elle quoting creative director adriana bozon as explaining that (trans.) “(t)he traditional Indian embroidery was done on the wrong side of fabric and this gave a charm to the jeanswear basics, such as the cropped jacket and shirt,” while the site itself reflected that “since the starting point was a motorcycle trip, buckles, zippers and leather details adorned the clothes, giving a youthful and modern look, yet sophisticated.”

i guess we could debate that above point, but whatever, i can also admit that maybe i’m not exactly one in the target audience. and! i did like some of the pieces, particularly those more subtle variations, such as viviane orth’s sand-coloured fringed suit (with the slightly spicy cropped top) and debora muller’s dark, high-necked jacquard printed abstract dress with the high skirt slit. and i must admit it was clever, as vogue points out, when the designer employed sari details (such as the little round mirrors) into the traditional riding gear and leather pieces.

anyway, in terms of cut and the like, the brazilian site chic gloria kalil explained that (trans.) “(t)he silhouettes were held together as the body of the urban warrior with a part that gave more movement on top, breaking its rigidity. Thus, it created a recurring proportion of three layers (shorter jacket, shirt / smock with long nappy pants and a mullet-type back),” while pure trend described how (trans.) “the leather is digitally patterned resembling tapestry, the colour palette is composed of earth tones, sand, off-white and black, and sometimes coloured by the camouflaged floral prints, giving a touch of military while 70’s to jackets and trousers, the star pieces from the collection.”

finally, though, there was the more thoughtful take of the excellent brazilian site closet online, which detailed how (trans.) “(t)he color goes from white to black, passing through off-white, mustard, silver, nude, gold, light blue, brown and wine. The prints appear both bringing floral graphics, as created from Indian looms. The leather was crafted with details, such as embroidery, precious stones, and applications. The fabrics follow the idea of ​​the counterpoint that guided the entire parade, satin, jacquard, silk, and velvet oppose leather and crude denim, used in reverse. The street and jeanswear line brings the classic rock and roll style of the brand, with apparent zippers in silver hardware highlighting various pockets and clippings, which are clearly detailed and wash well.”

(view the fashion show video here)

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