(images via intermoda)
oh me, oh my. days! weeks! months! we’re going to be here in russia, non? and i’m also kind of thinking that maybe part of the issue that has, for me, been dragging out the discussion on moscow fashion week almost intolerably isn’t the fashion at all–it’s the rather disappointing lack of coverage, which is usually fairly prevalent. yet for the upcoming fall season, it feels like so many designers are being much more ignored than they tend to usually be, and i’m not sure why.
right, so. however, we’re going to try to overcome this and let our enthusiasm for the fashion pervade instead. and so with that, are you ready to talk about the a/w 2013 presentation of designer nikolay krasnikov (Николай Красников)? we’re not, like, super familiar with the atelier, but we have checked out the designer’s work on a couple of previous occasions (a/w 2012 & s/s 2013), and if i was a little skeptical at first, than the last two seasons have proven him to be much more exciting than i originally anticipated.
alors. this time around, although we weren’t treated to a lot of critical background information, we did get a bit courtesy of the russian site ria moda, which explained that (trans.) “(o)n the runway, the history of relations between women and men told by the language of the suite was demonstrated. The inspiration for the collection was the famous ‘socialite’, and a secret agent of the Russian government in London and Paris: ‘diplomatic Sybil’ – Darya Lieven. Her life, her surroundings, and spy passions were running around this bold woman.”
so in other words, she’s kind of the perfect muse for the high fashion designer, in that mr. krasnikov could incorporate some military-inspired attire for the more, like, ‘day-to-day’-style wares, while her high society-style life was there to offer inspiration for those more glamourous parts of the collection, juxtaposing the elite balls and the like with the kind of action we’ve come to kind of associate with spy films, loud pulsating techno music and some vixen-angel girl in tight leather pants gadding about (and probably stars angelina jolie, no?).
but joking aside, i’d say it was a very well-rounded collection, with plenty of versatility in the looks, and a real wardrobe on display here, as opposed to just a couple of single pieces in a limited colour scheme that the customers are only supposed to purchase one or two of. it’s a more broad-sweeping vision, done up in the luxe attributes the russian designers are doing so well these days, although i’ll admit i was a little surprised to read that intermoda was less thrilled, complaining that he overloaded the looks with details.
the collection consisted of textiles such as wool, fur, leather, lace, velvet, and silk, with ria moda running down all of the details and backstory tied to the inspiration for each material, and although i’d tend to suggest that maybe some of the floral-print gowns and frocks were a little springlike for a fall showing, on the whole, i’d say it was quite nice to see so many pieces that felt winter-appropriate, from the coat dresses and the trousers, to the skirt suits and waistcoats.
ultimately, i get that this might be too fanciful for some people, but i tend to like a more dressed-up look, and there were times i rather thought that mr. krasnikov was playing a bit a being russia’s ralph lauren this season–completing these looks that transform his girls into almost action heroine princesses, though they’d be equally stunning simply trotting it out from the car to the bar. but! in the end, at the very least, even if it’s too much for you, i’d much rather see all of this elaborateness than yet another version of some of those crotch-skimming dresses we’ve been seeing faaaaar too many of in recent seasons for my liking.
(watch the fashion show video here)