belgrade fashion week: ana šekularac

(images via bfw)

so! actually this season i think we’ve been doing a rather nice job zipping along through belgrade fashion week instead of the long, lingering death i tend to want to put it through, don’t you find? and while we could speculate on the reasons for that, i think i’ve said enough, and in the meantime we should focus on that which is getting me excited at the moment: the reemergence of london-based serbian designer ana šekularac on the bfw catwalks for the a/w 2013 season!

we’ve seen ms. šekularac’s gorgeous little sculptural dresses a handful of times in the past (s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012), but she’s been absent a few seasons now, and with so many of our other favourites missing this time out, i was all the more happy to see her present collection, which stayed fairly true to form in terms of cut and classic colour and intricate little details on each dainty little frock.

none of the critics really gave us any kind of analysis on the background or what the theme was to be, as they all seemed mostly inclined to stand around and gape, but modni vrisak explained that the collection’s materials included (trans.) “handwoven wool mixed with silk georgette over silk and organdy,” and the palette followed that which we’re accustomed to seeing, adjusted for fall, with black and various shades of cream and white forming the foundation and scarlet and crimson occasionally sneaking in to leave a blazing, seductive kiss along the runway.

anyway, in terms of critical commentary, fashionela (which incidentally has some nice additional images) mostly wanted to gawk (as stated above), while a heavily panting wannabe magazine declared that the range was (trans.) “the spirit of femininity and elegance. Once again we were delighted with unusual cuts and fashion ideas, the woman she creates in her work: refined, graceful and dignified.” do you think they need to take a cold shower?

but indeed, it did kind of feel like the innocent vs. the temptress, if largely due to the palette, and while the designer always tends to veer on the creative side of sweet, she did appear to play a little bit more with a couple of minxy looks, cutting down a neckline of a black dress into a rather low v-neck, for example, or adding a sheer panel to a bodice just above the cleavage area. but on the whole, she tends to like her frocks still rated ‘pg’ for the most part, and keeps her hemlines north of the knees the spiciest feature.

on the whole, i do wish the designer would mix up her standard silhouette a bit more, perhaps splicing in a few longer dresses or sleeved variations, but the bfw site did make some good points in noting that this season she did try to mix things up a bit, with a few coats newly added to the mix. they were also spot-on in declaring it one of the best events of the season, even realizing that this time the (trans.) “competition is not strong,” although this doesn’t have any bearing on the quality inherent in ms. šekularac’s work, of course, which would be a highlight any time she deigns to bring her wares back to belgrade.

(watch the fashion show video here)

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