spfw: acquastudio

(images via ffw)

i generally always tend to kind of lump all the brazilian shows together in a jumble in my mind, mostly because they’ve traditionally been held back-to-back, so i didn’t even realize at first that the house of acquastudio  had made the leap from fashion rio to são paulo fashion week for the s/s 2014 season (yes, it’s that already. already!), but i guess i shouldn’t be surprised, given that while i’ve always liked designer esther bauman’s work (see a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, a/w 2013), this season was perhaps among the most exceptional.

anyway, for the upcoming summer, the brazilian site ffw explained that the theme was (trans.), “(a) new look at the history of Acquastudio,” adding that “(i)n their first show at SPFW…Acquastudio sought inspiration in the world of haute couture to create a retelling of its own story. Esther Bauman joined their party dresses and sartorial elements, which appear in more structured fabrics, then added a further navy element, which the brand defines as ‘navy couture.’ Studying the work of Jean Paul Gaultier, the designer saw they ‘could do a beautiful job of stripes with my biases, making geometric designs with varying silks.'”

“Chanel obviously came in the pearls, and the embroidery used in profusion in the pieces themselves, even in the collars and huge round glasses,” (again, trans.) they continued. “Despite all the hand work of craftsmanship, characteristic of the work of the brand, this season, the look is more ‘real’. As Esther said: ‘I tend to make things more conceptual, and when the parade ended in November, I said, “The next I’ll do more with my foot on the ground.”‘”

as one could expect, the materials this season were fairly luxe, with the brazilian website chic gloria kalil reporting that these included tulle, cotton, silk, organza, lace, and gauze, replete with, as they put it (trans.) “many eye-popping details.” these embellishments included plenty of embroidery, pleating, pearls, ruffles, tucks, draping, and origami-like folds. however, i was rather surprised that the colour palette was quite restrained this time out, mostly cut in white and ivory with a bit of navy striping for contrast.

elsewhere, as the brazilian site closet online reported that (trans.) “(l)ong dresses and geometric motifs mingled with handmade ruffles and bias cuts. Straight lines have not taken on the lightness of the pieces that were complemented with ruffles and peplums, and were responsible for a very feminine touch,” as vogue cheered that this might be a nice direction for summer weddings (and i fully agree), liking the maritime touch that was lent to many of the looks.

finally, according to elle (trans.), “(t)he brand brought out the nautical universewith stripes and a colour palette that consisted only of navy blue and off-white. Already Mademoiselle Chanel came with the pearls, which were many sizes and overlapping with fancy-shaped embroidery, invading even the accessories (which are always a sideshow when it comes Acquastudio). Apart from embroidery, lace, ruffles and handmade biases , the refinement of haute couture was given to party dresses. Another big step of Esther Bauman’s was to mix elements of tailoring in outfits, as in the case of structured lapels contrasting with the lightness of the dresses.” *yeow. i hope this marks a new direction for acquastudio, as although there was nothing wrong in the past, seeing them now at spfw opens the brand up in a whole new light, as something truly amazing.

(watch the fashion show video here)

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