(images via vogue)
usually i enjoy nothing more than a good romp through a russian fashion show, so i’m kind of surprised that this season has found me a little less reluctant to talk about them than usual, so! i’m going to try to pick things up today with one of opt’s favourite names out of moscow, the interminably clever dasha gauser (Даша Гаузер)! indeed, throughout the seasons (see a/w 2010, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), she’s regaled us with some delightfully twisty turns, and once again, for the a/w 2013 season, homegirl was winning us over further.
so! are you smiling yet? i must admit, i kind of am, as sometimes i tend to feel with ms. gauser’s collections that they’re so simple…but deceptively simple, leaving us wondering, ‘why hasn’t anyone else ever thought of that!?’ but then you know, that’s a big part of her allure. anyway, as an introduction, the russian face-2-face mag related that (trans.) “Dasha Gauser started showing a short film about a yellow taxi, road, night and the girl….”
although the reports on the collection’s title differ–some called it ‘road’ or ‘road movie,’ while the russian wday called it ‘strip,’ what manifested on the catwalk, they carried on, was full of (trans.) “the coluor of wet asphalt, architectural silhouettes and complex cuts,” with various allusions to the road and road markings (and sometimes taxis) and replete with the kind of clothing the designer does best. as the blog fashion kaleidoscope by mary-tur nicely summed it up (trans.) “leather jackets with zippers, structured dresses, [and] glamourous shoes and bags.”
in other words, her brand tends to be kind of a ‘slow fashion’ one, and she doesn’t necessarily stray a lot from the kind of architectural rigour and geometric prints and cuts that she does best. and yet, i don’t want to make it sound as though the designer doesn’t mix things up–she really does, and this season, for instance, some of the softness we’d seen in prior shows was completely obliterated, and i don’t think there was a line present anywhere that looked as though it hadn’t been cut with a razor along a ruler’s edge.
her girls were strong, and tough, and actually–do you remember the poster for the 1996 movie freeway, with a great image depicting vanessa’s sassy-ass face? i kind of think of that (or at least, that face) for these girls. right then. anyway, summing up the theme a little better was the russian site trendy, relaying how (trans.) “(t)he romance of the road, road trips and travel captivated Dasha and served as the inspiration for the creation of these images.”
they also wrote that, as ever, and because we are chez dasha gauser of course (again, trans.), “(t)he colour palette of the collection was predetermined by its subject matter. Of course it is black, gray, white. Graphically, the combination of black and white is clearly associated with the road markings. Such a contrasting stripe is very relevant in this season, and many designers have used this print in their shows, but for Dasha it became the basis of the whole collection.” but there was a little more colour, of course, with the look explaining that (trans.) “deep green and canary yellow colour [represented] a tribute to nature and the landscape outside the window flickering by the rapidly moving car.”
but i did want to point out that she managed to manipulate her focus b&w quite cleverly, including plenty of horizontal stripes and even little grids without ever looking anything but completely modernist. and–in an even more difficult feat–she managed not to look as though she were either paying homage to, or trying to capitalize on the popularity of marc jacobs’ turn through these motifs for both his main line’s s/s 2013 range, and his louis vuitton s/s 2013 collection (which i still maintain were both too close for comfort, whatever the fashionies may avoid the elephant in the room, alas.).
ahem! well, as a final thought, the russian site woman news (don’t you just love these abrupt russian site names?) reflected that (trans.) “(t)he video, stylized after American films of the 1970s, became an introduction to the collection, painted in the colour of wet asphalt and road markings – white and yellow. Adding to the overall flavor of the collection was green – the colour of the landscape outside the car – and the black mandatory for the designer, Dasha Gauser offers audiences a motion vector in the new season; the basis of the collection is traditionally the dress, decorated with graphic quality prints, this time supplemented by leather jackets and coats” (see additional runway images at procapitali$t & yandex).
(enjoy the full fashion show video here)