fashion rio: herchcovitch

(images via ffw)

for some odd reason, even as i know it’s not always a good idea, i always tend to want to hoard my favourite labels for the end of opt’s coverage on an event, instead pulling out some of those which i’m a little more ambivalent–or maybe not even, like, loving–out in front, which usually ends up meaning that these get the most thoughtful analysis, but then, in the end sometimes i wonder if that’s a good thing, as it causes me to think harder about that which i like less, instead of just plugging away at the ‘i love itlove itloveit!’s of that stuff i respond to more readily.

anyway, i guess that’s my way of opening up and saying that much as you know how much i adore alexandre herchcovitch‘s main line, i’m a little more reluctant to embrace his denimwear line herchcovitch, regularly staged at rio de janeiro’s fashion rio (to his main line’s spfw showing). i mean, don’t get me wrong, over the seasons we’ve been following his work here (see s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013, f/w 2013), i think he’s done some solid work, but i’ve never been a jeans person, and there it stands. and yet, i must admit i was kind of charmed by his s/s 2014 presentation, almost curiously, so there you go.

you see? the challenge seems to be working! anyway, this time around, the designer was, as the excellent brazilian site closet online details (trans.), “(i)nspired by the workers of the American West of the ’70s and ’80s, portrayed by photographer Richard Avedon in the series ‘The American West’ and the preppy style of the 50s, Alexandre brought a young and chic parade to the catwalk. For girls emerge types of carrot pants, cropped corsets, flowing skirts and leather details and aged hardware.”

and while the brazilian site chic gloria kalil noted that we saw plenty of (trans.) “overalls, [with the designer] citing the image of the laborers of the past (after all, they were for play, practical and utilitarian, it was thought). Hence, overalls and overalls culminate in dresses, tops, pants and jackets with patterned tops,” elle similarly pointed out that (trans.) “(t)he rustic uniforms of the miners were repurposed as overalls, bib and [jupmpsuits]. The denim came in several options: fluo green resin tone, striped…,with brown and jet black pigment treatment, and tye-dyed.”.

and while the brazilian site portais da moda gives us all the details on materials and the like (which i don’t feel like running down just now), in an interesting turn, ffw gave some good analysis on how the designer has tapped into his main line’s basic dna here, yet showed clothes that clearly had the commercial appeal his more expensive work may not always have (i think it does, alas), and maybe this is why i’m feeling this collection so much more than any of its predecessors. it was sweet and wearable, yet it had an arty quality that some of the other herchcovitch shows have lacked. maybe it was due to the wider mix of materials and, of course, the actual art inspiration this time ’round.

(enjoy the fashion show video here)


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