moscow fashion week: victoria andreyanova

(images via intermoda)

amazing! seriously, i don’t know what to say beyond that. i mean, to be sure, i have a lot to say about the gorgeous, rigourous minimalism that designer victoria andreyanova‘s (Виктории Андреяновой) girls bestowed upon us during her a/w 2013 moscow fashion week presentation. i mean, it was lovely, precise, refined…really all the kinds of things i look for in a fashion show, non?

anyway, although i didn’t initially realize it in all of my glee at her work, we’ve actually discussed the designer’s work on a couple of previous occasions (see a/w 2012 & s/s 2013), and i, too, was pretty pleased with both of those outings, albeit perhaps not on the level i am at the moment. but here we got that execution i so appreciate in the minimalist lines such as jil sander‘s–no flash,  just a lot of really precise line and tailoring, with the kind of quality that speaks for decades beyond the season for which they were constructed.

and so, for the designer’s inspiration for fall, i must admit i kind of rolled my eyes a little, given how often we’ve heard this theme (just in recent season chez russia’s arsenicum, brazil’s tufi duek, denmark’s peter jensen, and canada’s miz by izzy camilleri)–the 1963 alfred hitchcock film, the birds (and thereby, presumably, its heroine melanie daniels, played by tippi hedren, whom we’ve been seeing inspire designers for countless seasons).

anyway, clarifying the theme a little bit more was the russian site 4 shopping, stating that (trans.) “(t)he aesthetics are accentuated 60’s feminine – the dominant mood. Silhouettes are minimalist, with men’s pajamas. They are not an emancipation, but there is a call, a cry, an internal tantrum of defenseless creatures…Suits and overcoats form a shape as if molded from clay and are topped with a fedora with a volume bird[-like appendage].”

in other words, we were looking at a lot of classic pieces here, well executed and more concerned with that than anything to do with shaking up the fashion world. and i really liked that. anyway, glamour pointed out that the (trans.) “(m)onochromatic gamma [huess] recall the style of old movies, and the colours are diluted.” that meant, the russian site etoya carried on, that (trans.) “(t)he collection is mostly in pastel colours – beige, gray, smoky beige, pale green, and pale blue with bright accents – orange and burgundy red.”

that site also prattled on to reflect that the (again, trans.) “(k)ey silhouettes were strict, clear, male, [and we can] discern the influence of fashions of the 1960s.” there was a little bit of print, in the form of a few light checks, but it was subtle, much like the rest of the pieces, and the overall vibe kind of reminded me of the s/s 2013 ekaterina smolina (Екатерина Смолина) show, which focused specifically on the coat in a variety of colours, and with little miniscule tweaks, to give nods to the slightly variegated styles a girl might want.

by this i mean that ms. andreyanova was less concerned with switching things up utterly than she was with addressing the classics, and the little nicks and turns her customers might wish for, to suit their individual bodies and tastes. anyway, before i get lost on this, i thought you should probably hear intermoda‘s interesting take on the palette (trans.): “The palette reflects the highlights of the personal ecosystem of each person, her little ‘nature’: skin tones, pale blue sky, the air, the green foliage and grass and brown bricks – a symbol of home base. Blotches of gray and burgundy-brown in accessories – scarves, similar to helmets – only underlines the natural range.”

i like that she put more thought into this than the average film-inspired array, but then, i’m thinking this one is more clever than the rest, than i’ve initially given her credit for. anyway, as a last note, she worked largely with cashmere and felt in her pieces, and i liked the soft, brushed texture given to many of the outerwear looks, which felt so cozy, soft, and inviting, especially for those cold winter days, when going out is scarier for the weather than it might be for any lurking…birds (check out some additional runway images at vogue).

(see the full fashion show video here)


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