fashion rio: triya

(images via ffw)

i know, i know, i know. we’re still not finished with our spfw coverage, but i didn’t want to wait until we were, like, completely out of those woods (which still may be a while yet, honestly, given how many other shows we’ve to cover of late) to get the opportunity to talk at least a little bit about rio de janeiro’s fashion rio, particularly when it has been ridiculously (yeesh) hot where i am at the moment, and now we have the great good opportunity to talk about swimwear! and who doesn’t want to do that right about now?

and so, although fashion rio is awash in swimwear, and it’s honestly quite hard to select a favourite, i’d have to say that triya’s s/s 2014 range was definitely near the top of my list with some utterly clever pieces, such as a checkerboard bikini, twisting about the model’s body in a lovely trompe l’oeil moment, or an awesome giant sideways eye tank suit, or even the cheerful rosebuds splattered across many a look.

but! i think we’ve known the brand to be quite creative and innovative with their prints, tracing back over the summer seasons we’ve been following designer isabela b. frugiuele’s work (see s/s 2011, s/s 2012, s/s 2013). now, quite honestly i was a little less stunned by alicia kuczman’s breezy cover-up that featured a nude female body in life-size plastered across the front, as, humourous as it may be on the catwalk, it doesn’t tend to portend great things for real life, but then…ah, well.

anyway, while the brazilian site pure trend explained that we saw (trans.) “inspiration coming [from] artsy Helmut Newton, MC Escher and Linder Sterling,” they prattled along that, as we know well, prints are the major story for the house, and this time around, “the influences of the season are reflected: lip prints,…pink and graphics that give the idea of depth…Prints of nudes also arise on dresses and bikinis with playful touch. The details are left to the metallic bugle beads and gold-plated silver, which give luxury to the collection.”

and elsewhere, giving a little more depth to the collection’s background, ffw quoted the designer on her various (additional) sources of inspiration (trans.): “A strong woman, an intelligent body, a deep soul, the female figure is ahead, the red mouth kisses and yells, the bare chest which seduces and struggles, the look that sees, drives and moves the world.”

and they themselves went on to describe how (again, trans.) “(t)he Triya parades are always electrifying. Isabela can work with strong references in a striking setting, with powerful accessories and makeup à la Helmut Newton (marked red mouth and eyes). All this together in other hands could result in an image of pure excess, but here it is fun, bold and energetic. the iix of references left beautiful prints (Roses and  Escher eyes and a great caftan photo by Helmut Newton) and great combination of colours (purple and red, pink and red) that causes an effect.”

indeed, and running along a similar theme, the brazilian yahoo! site added that (trans.) “(t)he colour palette features intense, almost glaring shades, like red lipstick, pink, purple, black and turquoise…The prints were almost always red roses as inspiration, and the creations abused sensuality with provocative necklines that left breasts almost showing….[ms.] Frugiuele bet on good cuts and used metallic lycra fabrics that left the impression that the bikinis were made of leather.”

meanwhile, reflecting that there was a certain eighties glam appeal (and probably sex, as well) to the show, vogue mused that (trans.) “(a)s in the photographs by Helmut Newton,  the Triya women used nudity and fetish as a weapon of power and domination. So…the back of the bikini is small and abused, the clippings serve to highlight the curves and skin, forming a graphic and geometric display.”

finally, the brazilian site the closet online wanted to draw some versace comparisons, but honestly, i didn’t see them as strongly as i did some of the others. and although this opens up a whole conversation on the power dynamic and feminism and sexuality, i guess i’d ultimately just like to leave it with the thought that i get all of this better in the swimwear wold than i do in that of spanx/heels/skintight micro minis. but then, that’s just me, alas.

(enjoy the fashion show video here)


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