(images via vogue)
well! having last seen her work at ukrainian fashion week in kiev (for the s/s 2013 season), young georgian designer ria keburia (Рия Кебурия) has suddenly turned up on the moscow fashion week catwalks to showcase her a/w 2013 collection, which took cues from last season, yet grew up quite a bit, with a more definitively cohesive (and avant-y, leaving me to wonder if she’s going to want to further try to make the transition to paris or london) vision.
right, then. so this time around, according to the ukrainian site hochu, (trans.) “under the influence of Japanese culture, the designer has developed a collection of Georgian fashion traditions – unique shapes for strong, very sexy and slightly naive women.” i’m going to argue quite strongly (as i think we can all certainly see here) that there’s some definite fingerprints of comme des garçons in action here, as well as maybe even a little of miuccia prada’s late fixation with japanese culture (as for the s/s 2013 season), which particularly manifested in the footwear.
but anyway, the site went on to note that (again, trans.) “(i)n her work with the country, Keburia has forgone materialism and promotes a new view on clothing, built on the art of origami, simplicity and austerity. That is why the main colour is black in the collection, complete with orange hats resembling the halos of saints.” yet on the latter topic, the ukrainian lady news had a slightly different interpretation, seeing them as more definitively russian kokoshniks.
anyway, elsewhere, the russian site woman confirmed the rei kawakubo inspiration (as well as some of the other mainstay japanese designers), reporting that (trans.) “(c)orrugated architectural details evoke associations with origami and unexpected cuts, voluminous sleeves and pockets added to the avant-garde of the collection…On their feet, they had unusual shoes, reminiscent of traditional Japanese…two stand-heels. According to the designer, the heels and the pins are a taboo, but for harmony with the religious-themed collection, the girls literally had to ‘raise’ themselves from the ground in this original way.”
then, the russian site buro 24/7 described how (trans.) “(s)pecial attention is given to the details in the collection,” specifically citing, among others, “the sleeves and pleated skirts,” while intermoda gave us what was apparently the designer’s manifesto this season, which included the thoughts that (trans.) “By the twentieth century, the world has become too materialistic, away from the spiritual roots and plunging into mainstream atheism. The modern trend is clearly visible in the so-called modern images and trends in clothing – the realm of classical, which associates with materialistic wealth, has lost its value, made available, mass, commercialized. Materialism has become a lifeless god. God without faith, a paradoxical atheist …” they’ve got a lot more, and while i’m not sure i really want to go into all of that at present, i agree wholeheartedly with the notion that this is certainly a collection to divide…and likely conquer.
(see a quick bit of video action here)