spfw: samuel cirnansck

(images via ffw)

as i remain in utter disbelief that we’re into the summer shows already at são paulo fashion week, and a little pain that they’ve wrought it upon us waaay too early, i’m also trying to appreciate what’s before us, especially because, seriously, ultimately, we are treated to so many exceptionally skillful designers and their beautiful creations for the s/s 2014 season, like samuel cirnansck, once known for his more avant-y pieces, who has lately grown his into more of a fine dress atelier, kind of along the mcqueen-ian lines (see his f/w 2011, s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013, f/w 2013 shows).

right so, for the upcoming spring, the designer set along the path he began for fall, offering a much smaller range of nearly couture-quality gowns and dresses, with elle explaining that he drew on (trans.) “(t)he flowers of Indonesia and the Netherlands,” as his inspiration, as they eventually termed the creations both “romantic” and “sexy,” although i’d say for the larger part, a kind of prettyprettyprincess vibe transcended any kind of naughtiness going on.

anyway, elsewhere, as the brazilian site pure trend had basically the same interpretation of theme, ffw came in a bit differently, noting that (trans.) “(f)rom Indonesia, the fever of flowers, the Netherlands, the scent of flowers,” was whence mr. cirnansck drew his ideas. and they also carried on to say that “(t)he layers of shapes and cutouts, everything has to do with the flowers. And the dresses show this process with clear and lighter models beginning…[as] the flower buds, then the dresses with wide and voluminous skirts enter, in bold colours, representing the splendor, and the end is silhouettes marked …’as if the flower is dry, dead.'”

i have to say, i found that rather awesome, instead of the samesamesame we might come to expect out of a theme such as this, non? but anyway, they also reported that silk, sourced from the eastern parts of india was used liberally in the show, while the brazilian site closet online added that (trans.) “(n)oble fabrics like organza, gazar, and yields of the heavy satin and embroidered shamtung[were used with] draping and folding. Weaving flowers of various colours, [we saw] a delicate green, and a fuchsia metallic one.”

finally, chic gloria kalil weighed in with the impression that all of it ultimately looked very bridal/bridal party, and while i don’t want to say they were wrong, i’m a little hesitant, mostly because i believe the designer can be so much more than just that. but, if i’m brutally honest, i will allow that both luana teifke and viviane orth’s flouncy pink confections did give off maybe too much of a bridesmaid aura, and i really don’t like that–i don’t want to see this designer settling down into fancy, girlish pretty things, as i believe he has an underlying…punk? gothic? dark? nature that also needs to be explored, even if he hasn’t been these last couple of seasons. but as we all know, the bridal business is lucrative. and how.

(see the show video here)


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