(images via intermoda)
although i’m honestly not sure why i worry so much about staying on track with timing, i really do, and as each day passes and we’re subject to an new influx of images/shows from the various fashion events taking place all over moscow, i feel myself adding, like, another week to the time we’re going to be spending discussing russian fashion. but then, i suppose it doesn’t ultimately mean a bad thing, right, because we all of us love russian fashion? no? yes, that’s what i thought! yes, we do!
and so with that, here today we’re going to be discussing the a/w 2013 exhibition of the muscovites by masha kravtsova (Маша Кравцова), a designer we haven’t seen for a couple of seasons now (see a/w 2010, a/w 2011, s/s 2012), as perhaps she’s gone undercover, but which we knew reasonably well back in the day for her rather dark palette choices and, oftentimes, military-esque or androgynous silhouettes and pieces. she’s definitely not a girly-girl, but then, that’s kind of refreshing, you know?
of course, we could expect more of the same for the upcoming autumn range, which was titled ‘live today’ according to the russian site ria moda, and which, they explained, was about (trans.) “calling notice to leaks into the sand of time with the beauty of the moment. One of the main elements of the prints are the images of drops ready to break, mildew, rust and the patina of surfaces which symbolize the ephemeral nature of the material.”
oh! how i love that! do you love it? and i love the way ms. kravtsova was able to pull off such an unlikely theme–and so chicly! at times, some of her cuts and especially the sharp white collars combined with prints and darker hues reminded me of stuff miuccia prada has done for miu miu (but don’t tell the fashionies i said so, nor what i’m about to!), but i’m not sure, whatever her hardcore talk, that she’d ever want to walk with a truly edgy theme like this one. gasp.
but right, anyway, the clothes at hand. so we did get some slightly differing interpretations of the theme, with, for example, the russian face-2-face magazine arguing that this was an (trans.) “image of the urban Parisian: a lot of detail, constructive lines, multi-layered, complex colours, [and] kimono cuts,” while on the other hand, intermoda interpreted it as (trans.) “the style of the 21st century metropolis,” calling attention to details like “a print that refers us to the luxurious apparel of the Byzantine emperors and Russian tsars.”
meanwhile, despite the fact that the theme may seem very, yannow, eco/of-the-moment, it’s rather interesting to understand ms. kratsova’s underlying philosophy and design ethic, which was detailed rather nicely by the russian site woman (trans.): “On the podium, she presented variations on classical models: the pencil skirt, a white shirt, a dress with Basques, pants. The idea of the designer is simple: to create things that will carry you today and in the future – your ‘abstract future granddaughter’. ‘Do not blindly follow what is fashionable here and now,’ says Masha. ‘You can enjoy it, but do not become a fan of the short-term trends. Otherwise, disappointment comes quickly, as today it is in fashion, but tomorrow antifashion.'” truetrue.
well. on the subject of accessories, the russian site procapitali$t explained that (trans.) “(l)arge necklaces..of gold metal were one of the two main vanity accents,” which they argued had more of a historical aspect to them “but the black plastic visors do not–they add a touch of the futuristic.” and, finally, detailing the materials, which included wool and leather, the russian snc magazine reflected that (trans.) “symbolizing the finality and destruction under the influence of time…[we saw] silk quilted jackets and ‘rusty’ dresses, smart ‘pajamas’ and ‘training’ suits with pencil skirts.” so a little of something for everyone. and it’s already pre-aged, so you don’t have to worry about spots! talk about all of us going home winners, eh? yay for the muscovites! (see some lovely backstage images at vika julia)