australia fashion week: toni maticevski

(images via vogue)

oh my children, i’ve been having such fun with the australian fashion week shows from sydney, you have no idea! i mean, don’t get me wrong, all of the international collections are lovely, but it can be fun not to have to deal with translating and all of that nonsense, and just research in english, where i can be a little (delightfully, actually!) lazy. anyway, let’s take a moment to take in toni maticevski‘s latest, for the s/s 2014 season. it’s surprising, isn’t it? aren’t you a shocked? i feel it’s quite edgy for him, as though he’s been taking lessons of late from giles deacon, you know?

in other words, i’d say we’re generally accustomed to much softer, more (dare i say it) standard evening fare (see s/s 2012, f/w 2012, s/s 2013), but i don’t at all mean to suggest he was boring–just often soft, and ethereal, and with lots of feathers, and never one to propose, like, that ‘hot topic presents: the prom, this time with an s&m theme!’-style of black gown spliced with the hot pink flowers on julia nobis he this season opted to close out his show with. but! i really like it! as i did that blush pink-and-white blocked below-the-knee dress featuring the caution orange belt, even if there were maybe a few strong whiffs of raf simons’ latest incarnation of christian dior. want to bet the critics see it, too?

right, then! so, are you ready for some critics’ time? titled ‘the tomboy heiress,’ breakfast with audrey informs us that “(f)ocussing on creating a collection for the modern woman, Toni managed to create the perfect blend between luxe and edgy. Ladylike silhouettes and flowy fabrics were cut through by exposed zipper detailing, body harnesses and sporty necklines giving the collection that extra tomboy edge and kept it looking very modern,” while indeed-indeed, we heard the telegraph catch on my very thoughts, writing that “(h)e refreshed his elegant dresses with a series of sculpted neoprene dresses…They had a whiff of Dior by Raf Simons about them, but you appreciated the ambitious sentiment, in a week of shows which mostly skewed wearable and buyer-friendly.”

meanwhile, as the trendspotter offered that “(d)raping, sharp tailoring, bold stripes mixed with luxe silks, were the jaw dropping features,” fab sugar chimed in that “(h)is sculptural yet minimal incarnations of classic evening-wear drew audible gasps…A lack of frivolous adornment meant that the focus stayed on the elegant 3D form of Toni’s creations; beaded peplums and collars adding clergical reverence to cocktail pieces and artfully folded neoprene and bonded jersey full-skirts making the models look like couture-worthy presents, wrapped up and tied off with fine-strapped leather belts,” and of course you can get all the beauty details at bella sugar, their companion site.

and then, in the ever-more-thoughtful department, we heard the vine ring in that “(i)f this show was an atonement for indeliberate trend-setting, it was a good one. There were still a few peplums and capped shoulders near the start, falling out from bodices bedecked with yonic folds. However, these frill details soon grew out of control, cascading into wide, New Look layers – a vast improvement. Then came the show’s best efforts, the kind of cleverness that will not easily be replicated – molded neoprene evening pieces that bent and folded with the clean lined precision of a 3D printed sculpture.  White pencil skirts – teamed with sporty racer back singlets – were librarian in length and had vivid contrasting lining, and they folded over slender belts at the top to reveal it.” so there you go (see some lovely additional images at style melbourne).

(check out the fashion show finale video here)

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