toronto fashion week: duy

(images via front row mag)

i’ll admit (and even in my review) i ran a little hot-and-cold on the subject of designer duy nguyen’s daphne guinness-inspired a/w 2011 work for his duy label (which also served as opt’s introduction to the brand), but after giving ourselves a break from him, i felt ready to tackle the designer once more for the a/w 2013 season at toronto fashion week. and he’s changed, it seems, grown up, and reinvented himself much more as a cocktail/red carpet dressing-type.

alors. this time around, as the canadian fashion magazine described it, “(a) pale, frosty palette and fox-trimmed leathers fit with the Canadian Arctic theme. Materials were all rich, warm, and begging to be touched, with mohair trousers cut to pleated perfection, and a ‘hairy’ top that looked like a fine shag carpet. Nguyen also spent weeks slicing tulle for his swishy evening skirts, basketweaving wool jersey for tops and handcrafting hundreds of flowers from left over scraps. ‘I wanted them to look like they were decomposing,’ he said of the appliques that wound around shoulders and necks.”

and elsewhere, while fashion studio magazine chirped that the range “features elegant jackets and coats combined with both wide and narrow trousers, feminine dresses, and chic evening gowns. What we really like about this collection is the designer’s use of a broad colour pallette [sic],” the canadian the kit explained that “‘(i)cy and mystical,’ was the aim, and to illustrate the point, Nguyen offered up cozy wools, white sequined pieces, lush fur and a palette of white, grey, black, blue and mossy green.”

“There was a gown made of thermal sweatshirt-like fabric with a neckline encrusted with crystals, and topped with a powdery blue chenille bomber jacket. Another evening look paired a popcorn-stitch fisherman-knit style sweater over a floor-length jet-and-sparkling evening skirt,” they prattled on, as the montreal gazette declared that the presentation “was a game of texture, mixing mohair, feathers, flowers, sequins, leather and metallic embroidered silk, sometimes all in the same piece.”

the winter “collection was a practice in luxe, with Italian fabrics, plays on masculinity and richly embroidered materials taking centre stage for his homage to a Canadian winter,” shrieked front row mag. “Consisting of ice blue, cream, grey, black and moss green, the high drama show opened with a stunning floor length, black wool coat. From the first look to the last, the designer, who was born in Vietnam, showed comfortable luxury at its best, with sequins mimicking snowflakes (the designer told us this material was purchased at $200 a metre!), ball gown length skirts in soft cotton, all mixed with sleek leather accents.”

then, finally, according to kenton magazine, “(e)arth tones, ice blue and neutrals made up the color palette and clearly depicted the Canadian landscape. Iridescent floral embellishments and meticulously placed sequins gave an ethereal feel to evening looks and showed off Duy’s level of craftsmanship. Edgier elements were shown in oversized silhouettes, bold floor-length coats, and a multitude of leather pants, skirts, and dresses. Huge fur cuffs gave a leather tuxedo jacket a seriously fierce edge, while a powder blue leather jacket with fox fur trim showed just how glamorous layering for winter can be.”

(watch the fashion show video here)

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