moscow fashion week: alina assi

(images via intermoda)

i’d like to start things off with a programming note, apologizing for opt’s rather unexpected hiatus over the last several days. i’ve recently crashed into some unavoidable illness, and as a result, have had no time energy, or will to live (ha) to put into the site. as you know, that means we’re rather behind, but i’m hoping we’ll be catching up shortly.

alas, in the meantime, are you ready to talk about some more russian fashion? there’s a lot of it to be had, but i find it kind of nice that we’ve wound our way into having a good, solid number of designers we know rather well by now, so each season it’s kind of like welcoming an old friend again, and growing on what we know about them a little bit more.

and so with that, it seems like the right thing to do to re-launch our discussions with the moscow fashion week a/w 2013 range of designer alina assi (Алина Асси), whose work we’ve been following steadily for at least a few seasons (see a/w 2010, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), and who seems to be improving in her cohesion of story telling with each time we see her.

if the designer–especially in the first few seasons we knew her–had a tendency to want to spit out a bunch of pretty things, that didn’t necessarily relate to each other in any specific manner, then i’d say with each passing collection, she’s getting a bit better at stifling that urge. maybe there were a few times for this range when that wasn’t so, but whatever, she’s trying, and it definitely shows.

anyway, her story for the upcoming fall felt kind of like an unfolding of winter into the early spring, with the girls starting out in rather heavy winter coats–complemented, my favourite russian site procapitali$t points out, with (trans) “fur scarves and fishnet bags with fur ‘tails'”–in a darker palette, which eventually gave way to lighter pastel shades and even some delicate floral motifs.

although there was no actual rundown (really, the analysis this time was pretty poor, and i was unable to find much) on the range materials, intermoda noted that the designer opted to play  (trans.) “with different textures of fabrics,” and i think i can confidently call out some types of fur, chiffon, silk, and wool, as well as beading and crystals tossed into the mix for embellishment.

at times i was reminded rather strongly of los angeles-based designer tadashi shoji‘s work, with its ethereal garden party element and soft, floral pastels (sky blue, pale rose yellow, lilac, and ivory were among the choices) at play, and there was a definite, strong emphasis on the evening gown this season, although save for a few indigo and midnight blue-black choices, most felt decidedly as though meant for the spring.

another rather interesting part of the narrative–and it was one i wish the designer would have explored a bit more, to be honest–was that bird-and-flower motif segment towards the end of the show, with the creamy white and pale pastel dresses adorned with delicate little pictures of springtime birds in the grass, sometimes accompanied by some delightful little flowers, as these made not only for some of the only day looks, but some of the most unique, lovely as the rest of the clothes were.

for in truth, as much as i liked the outerwear and the elegant, bedazzled evening wear, i’ll be honest: we’ve seen variants of all of this before (and probably, if i’m being a bit harsh, better). and i also would have wished for a little bit better transition between the stories, rather than the abrupt tossing-off of the coats, and then suddenly, full-on may day! and practically summertime! because, while a clever idea, we know it doesn’t really work like that.

but, still, on the whole, the clothes were good, the transitions were fairly clean, and most of the ideas worked together, so it was, i’d conclude, a success for ms. assi. true, as i’ve said, i’d like to see her focus on day a bit more (and maybe a few more pairs of pants), but baby steps, and she’s doing well. besides, there were more than a few ‘wants’ and ‘must-haves’ here, so maybe for the sake of all of our pocketbooks, enough is enough, yes?

(enjoy the full fashion show video here)


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