japan fashion week: yuma koshino

(images via mbfwj)

i’ve found myself looking more and more forward to each yuma koshino (ユマ コシノ) show as tokyo’s japan fashion week turns ’round for another season, as although we can grant that the designer isn’t going to try to shock us with her broody aesthetic or saccharine us to death with ‘gothic lolita’ moments, all of which can be great fun, we can all the same just kind of relax in her hands, knowing she’s going to offer wearable clothes that are actually, thanks to her kicky verve, quite sprightly and fun all the same.

anyway, while we haven’t been following her wares long enough for me to feel i’ve got an utter hold over things (see her s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013 work), i nevertheless feel i can generally say that she’s trying to create pieces for working women who need to get on with their lives, and while maybe not ever descending into what we might call kawaii territory, she does seem to have a firm handle on the fact that many girls, while aging just the same, still want to have some fun, and explore prints, colours, and playful moments with their clothes.

right, so, this time around, according to fashion snap, the designer titled her autumn range ‘RaDiCAL CONTRaST’ (with the letters intact–i guess it’s supposed to be a little like danish designer bARBARA Ì gONGINI, or maybe SanDeE* from la story, right?), which was, explained fashion press (trans.), “chaos and chaos, pure and beautiful.” whew! don’t you love these japanese designers? always thinking, and never dull on the inspiration front!

ahem. anyway, the site rattled on that with the (again, trans.) “mix of different materials and different taste, we found the beauty in contrasts.” they also pointed out that the designer worked with a variety of differing textures, including some textiles usually chosen for home furnishings, with materials including fur, lame, tweed, mohair, dotted swiss, silk, chiffon, and sequins and beading for embellishments.

the palette was heavy on the jewel tones, like sapphire, shamrock green, amethyst, and turquoise, with some mustard, a few metallic sheens, and rich chocolatey brown hues and of course the requisite black to pull things together. there were a few sixties-esque geometric motifs rattling around on the catwalk, alongside various splotchy florals and abstracts, with the gem-type shapes and colours evoking for me in feel–if not aesthetic–the chanel mineral extravaganza for a/w 2012.

finally on the critical front, the japanese site apparel web dropped in to relay that, even with her generally fairly classic underlying base, with so many differing textures and materials, teh designer was challenging us to mix things up, and try something new. and i suppose i can see that, in her way–and i like that it wasn’t utterly outrageous and wild, as what woman going to work can really do that (unless, say, she works at a fashion magazine or vintage shop)? but with lots of charming dresses and separates, sometimes not always in a colour or fabric we’re comfortable with, there’s quite a lot to try out here, and that makes for a kind of exciting notion. but maybe in a more subtle, and dare i say, ‘realistic’ sense (see some more runway images at tokyo add).

(enjoy the complete catwalk video here)

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