japan fashion week: mercibeaucoup

(images via wwd)

although for one reason or another (that i can’t entirely figure out), opt isn’t particularly familiar with designer eri utsugi’s mercibeaucoup (メルシーボークー) label, having only checked out her a/w 2012 range in the past (though to be sure, she did take some time off the tokyo catwalks, so perhaps that’s part of it), but much as i loved that one, i was similarly enthralled with the a/w 2013 presentation at tokyo’s japan fashion week.

the range was subject to some differing interpretations, with the japanese site fashion snap stating that (trans.) “(t)he theme is coffee,” while apparel-web for the most part backed this up, while asserting that (trans.) “the show was [staged to] the rhythm of the bossa nova. The theme of this year is coffee…the design of the coffee cup and coffee bean motif.  And what became an important motif as well as coffee beans, was the soccer ball. The soccer ball appeared in all kinds of items, in this show.”

yet on the other hand, we had wwd arguing that “Eri Utsugi’s Brazil-themed collection featured a range of loud, mixed prints — from polka dots and Brazilian flags to streetscapes, mermaids and flowers — in a riot of color. Soccer balls were a theme throughout, their recognizable pentagon motif showing up on bags, ballet flats, nylon Windbreakers, knit tights and trousers. Oversize T-shirts and thick, textured knits were contrasted with leggings and slim tweed pants.” hmm. so what to make? i’d say maybe a little of everything.

anyway, i’d say that the aesthetic reminded me of meadham kirchhoff‘s playful takes on the teen years, maybe tossed with a little bit of louise gray when she was still her recalcitrant self, while it was interesting to see the differing take on the soccer theme, which we’ve actually seen a handful of times before, mostly in ukraine (olya romanova, yulia slobodyan, and maryna vovchko), but also at a new order show in brazil. finally, the excellent fashion press pointed out that, for the most part, we saw a (trans.) “(p)uffed sleeves and oversized cocoon silhouette.” and, of course, it looked good!

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