(images via intermoda)
although i must admit my hopes were high for designer ester abner (Эстер Абнер) to be something of a steampunk, or at least victoriana enthusiast after first encountering her work at one of moscow’s various fashion weeks with her smashing f/w 2012 range, the hope quickly dissipated with her s/s 2013 collection, which i quickly realized bore no resemblance to anything like that. but i’ve overcome my disappointment with the turn of the f/w 2013 season, and i’m ready to approach her collections once more as a discussion point. yes?
this season, i must admit, contrary to basically everything we’ve seen from her in the past, i was variously getting versace, arsenicum (maybe circa f/w 2012 in particular), guy laroche (i’m thinking of the f/w 2013 glam-mixed-with-bondage)–and maybe also a little of moscow-based vrettos vrettakos’ s/s 2013 range as well–vibes throughout, finding the designer’s aesthetic, whatever she might say, much like the rich, sexy woman who can dress in the most elegant clothes getting a little kinky in the after-hours.
but! according to the russian site lady, the autumn range was titled ‘fragments’, and was (trans.) “dedicated to the image of the ‘woman-warrior’.” carrying on, they added that “(t)he leitmotif of the new collection of the brand of Ester Abner was the theme of ‘military’. The heroine of the future winter season the brand is a strong woman, active and purposeful by day, charming and sexy by evening.”
adding on to this notion was my most-beloved-named russian site procapitali$t, explaining that (trans.) “(o)nce women had to prove that they can be equal to men, in society and the profession [world]. Now they are winning back the right to be themselves and be loved….In this new, war, the heroine…resorts to the most dangerous weapon – a fascinating charm, natural sexuality and aggressive femininity. The designer assembles those qualities like a mosaic of an explosive mechanism. It is only after the big bang that we can reassemble the fragments of impressively sharp images, unforgettable emotions and deep feelings. But while on the podium, we see a female warrior, seeking solely her purpose.”
drama much? heh. but anyway, we also heard the excellent intermoda noting that (trans.) “(i)n her arsenal are distinguishing and sexy cocktail dresses, suits and jackets, feminine blouses and magnificent evening ensembles, which are easily and harmoniously constructed with leather basques, corset belts and belts with massive buckles. The focus is a combination of leather and wool crepe, chiffon and fur, metallic and icy silk jersey,” as the russian refashion described how (trans.) “(t)he main colours of the collection were black and green, presented in different variations. Models presented traditionally aristocratic styles, that were built on the contrast of femininity and toughness.”
meanwhile, as cosmopolitan shopping described items like an (trans.) “(a)rchitecturally-topped dress with leather inserts accented a freely decaying skirt, while the final touch is a belt with a metal buckle,” the ukrainian site hochu similarly pointed out the contrasts between traditional femininity and sharpness. i’d say on the whole, this felt a little jagged for my liking, and didn’t flow as smoothly as some of the designer’s other work, but i can see how this collection will sell. and fast. and sometimes, that’s the fact of ultimate importance, after all, you know? (see additional runway images at yandex)
(enjoy the full fashion show video here)