lisbon fashion week: luis buchinho

(images via portugal confidential)

we’re getting quite close to being finished with our coverage of the fall edition of lisbon fashion week, and as per usual, i’m having a lot of difficulty in selecting a favourite show! so if i kind of pick two, will you be mad? right, then, i’m selecting two, and designer luis buchinho, whose work i’m pretty much always pleased with (see a/w 2012 & s/s 2013), was squarely in that category with his amazingamazing a/w 2013 range.

and so, this time around, when asked about his theme for fall, the designer explained to the blog daily moda lisboa that (trans.) “(t)he question of identity is a goal for me right now, such as this collection is based on Portugal in the 70s, with all the changes that have emerged in the decade. The imaginary icons related to the Revolution are processed in very graphic lines, where a strong lookr eigns, pragmatic and assertive.”

further (and perhaps a little bit more explicitly) clarifying the theme was arc street, which described how “(a) collection based on the theme of the strong identity of the portuguese revolution (april 25, 1974) interpreted in a modern language between a provocative attitude and a will of change. [sic all]”

“The designer Luis Buchinho,” they carried on, “reveals a graphic collections using red black and white colors, using the mens codes of this period. Strong silhouttes with a urban and very elegant touch, through geometric constructions and asymmetrical details. Skin, felt wool or tweed are used to give strenght and resistance to the look reminding this moments of resistance [sic all].”

elsewhere, interestingly enough, the portuguese blogs sewing machine and trends look gave some good insight into the designer’s cuts and palette (both coming up with much the same ideas, so i’m loath to give credit to just one), with the latter explaining that (trans.) “(t)he pieces have structured shoulders and are scored with straight cuts in a retro / modern spirit.”

The icons of the Revolution red carnations, a machine gun, and the graphics of political posters are reinvented in a modern and graphic language. The revolutionary attitude, a willingness to change and a statement of new idealst is embodied in the palette, with only three colours red, black and white,” (again, trans.) they concluded.

elsewhere, portugal confidential noted of the textiles that the designer worked with “(f)abrics of endurance and strength: leather, wool felt, tweed and wool crepe.” but although i’ll grant that these seemed appropriate give the designer’s chosen theme (which also rather echoed vivienne tam’s maoist ode for a/w 2013), i wouldn’t say they were necessarily new–rather, i believe he likes some structure, given that he usually imbues his clothes with a sense of rigour and geometry.

anyway. somewhat similarly, the portuguese site maxima pointed out that (trans.) “(t)he pieces are betting on a strong structure, with marked shoulders and straight lines. The blocks of black contrasted with white and there are still tweeds and graphic patterns.”

in all, i’d say the pieces at times felt like something utterly new, while at others, more like updated classics. and this mix was to the designer’s credit, one of the elements that made the collection interesting. true, the strength probably won’t be for everyone, but don’t you think they look pretty good for the new modern woman, and can’t you imagine her looking just slammin’ in one of these powerful, structured peplum-ed dresses? *ow! (see additional show images at lab daily)

(enjoy the full fashion show video here)

The pieces they want is structured shoulders and scored straight cut in a spirit retro / modern. The icons of the Revolution red carnations, a machine gun, the graphics of political posters are reinvented in a modern and graphic language.
The revolutionary attitude, a willingness to change and new ideals statement is embodied in the palette, with only three colors red, black and white.

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