(images via ufw)
right, so once again, i am sorry that it has taken longer than we would have wished to slog through the collections of kiev’s ukrainian fashion week, but please know that i am doing my best, and truly, it shouldn’t be that much longer now. and the good news is that right now we get to turn our attention to the f/w 2013 range of the oft-quirky-and-conceptual elena burenina (Елены Бурениной)!
anyway, although we’ve seen the designer pulling out some definitely, er, challenging creations in the past (see f/w 2010, s/s 2011, f/w 2011, s/s 2012, f/w 2012), this season i’d say found her almost conservative by her former standards, as if she was taking a nostalgia trip through the pioneering section of some americana museum, a bit like russian designer ulyana sergeenko trotted out for her s/s 2013 haute couture range, or maybe even yohji yamamoto’s y-3 f/w 2011 show, which also had a western, and perhaps true grit-esque touch.
actually, while ms. sergeenko’s work at least partially derived inspiration from the adventures of tom sawyer, so too did the ukrainian site hochu argue that did ms. burenina, rather humourously noting that (trans.) “(i)f Tom Sawyer lived in our time and were a girl, his straw hat would replace the strict black hat in the tradition of hipsters and light grunge – with slightly bulky items, monochrome colours and tapering short pants.” and the ufw site stated that “(t)he looks are restrained but sensual, little bit sexual but monastic to a certain extent. Clothes ‘interpret’ soul through a prism of rough forms.”
carrying on with this notion somewhat was the ukrainian website lady tch, writing that the aesthetic was (trans.) “deep, sensitive, but at the same time sexy…’We do not always want to become bare, sometimes you need to bring a message of other means and expressions. It is through this very moving, serious and profound,’ – says Elena Burenina,” while in terms of more straightforward (and less conceptual) reporting, the russian site fashiony explained that (trans.) “(t)he colour scheme is quite faded…black, white, gray, [and] blue,” and that the designer worked with such textiles as cotton, knitwear, wool, tulle, crepe, voile, and silk.
they also ventured on to suggest that the collection held certain similarities to hedi slimane’s debut at ysl, for the s/s 2013 season, a point with which the site ukrainian fashion concurred, although i will tell you flatly–save maybe for the fact that both shows featured some prominent hat action–i don’t see it. there was something a lot more retro and straight-laced than mr. slimane’s seventies-throwback glam rock la woman, though i will agree that the similarities might be in that, as with that show, ms. burenina wasn’t really showcasing a lot of new ideas here, which is rather a shame for her, even as the clothes were on the whole fairly straightforward and wearable.
alors. “All things are imbued with a kind of asceticism and simple lines. Due to the unusual fabric surface and contrasts of textures and densities, the final images are truly luxurious, and yet practical,” (trans.) opined be in trend. “The secretive and sexy nature of the heroine was very well underscored with the accessories and footwear collections, [including a] wide-brimmed ‘cowboy’ hat hiding her face, black gloves, bracelets of translucent fabric, and unpretentious and comfortable shoes.” i guess they’re right, as i likewise guess that there will probably be a lot of girls all over this nonsense, but i’m personally left with a little feeling of sadness, as if we’ve seen the designer take the turn down commerical boulevard, that street on which she’d never turned in the past (see additional catwalk images at vogue).
(check out the full fashion show video here)