(images via ffw)
if i was kind of feeling that we were a little light on the swimwear collections this time ’round out at são paulo fashion week, then the house of forum, i’d say (see s/s 2013 & a/w 2013) kind of straddles that line, if not exactly turning out the full-on beachwear, than all the same offering up the kind of breezy beachside dresses, cover-ups, and tropical/nautical/poolside-leaning pieces that would feel just right for a day spent on any summer day or evening meant to capture the full flavour of the season.
anyway! much like that quintessential nica kessler nautical-themed s/s 2012 range that i mention at pretty much any and all given opportunities, here was nothing new so much as it was, all the same, absolutely fabulous for what it was. truly, designer marta ciribelli captured the joys of the season with a retro fifties-sixties take on nautical staples, never trying to reinvent, as say, junya watanabe did with such excellence for s/s 2011, but rather, just trying to give us updates on all the classics.
anyway, as ffw was to explain things (trans.), “Forum welcomes the summer with a party on a boat to the sound of bossa nova. The 1960s and the nautical universe join in the creative process to compose a very feminine collection, with…strength in dresses, the strong point of the collection. The navy inspiration appears in the prints of us in knots and sailors.”
meanwhile, as they pointed out that the designer was unafraid to put the skin out on display (though for my part, i’d like to argue it was never gratuitous, or without cause, as the overall feel was very retro), elle added that (trans.) “(i)n addition to styling full of scarves and rope accessories, the universe was composed of nautical prints and even a colour chart: boats, sailor stripes and we came alive with the classic trio white, navy and red, accompanied by a good dose of vibrant orange.”
anyway, just to sum things up, if we looked closely, besides the rope prints, we could see plenty of maritime stripes, sailboat motifs, a starry sort of pattern that i suppose is based on some sort of nautical compass, and a fabric that looked like dotted swiss, actually made up of little sailor’s knots–in other words, a lot of detail put into the fabrics, but in a charming, rather than kitschy, sort of way. and textiles included neoprene, embroidered raffia and laise, silk, cotton (of course!), and lace.
elsewhere, in terms of what we saw regarding the clothes themselves, the sometimes oddly conservative brazilian site chic gloria kalil spent its time pointing out all the ways (cut-outs, sleeveless pieces, boat or square necklines) skin could be on display here, but i would have thought we’d all understand a decent little sleeveless a-line frock is a staple for most girls come summer, and while the strapless rompers maybe aren’t the most modest thing we’ll be seeing all season, they had a fifties-style charm about them that i’d argue went beyond any kind of overtly sexytimes-type notion.
elsewhere, praising the flippy ruffles and hot weather-friendly open backs, the brazilian website closet online reflected that (trans.) “(t)he first looks were full of prints that seemed embroidered with sparkles, wide belts and a pendant detail. The dresses had strong modeling in the bust and rope prints…harmoniz(ing) very well with the elegance and charm of the pieces.”
and according to vogue (trans.), “the wardrobe was made up of dresses with wide and clean cuts and tailoring, which the supercool brand presented on the catwalk…prints that recall the beachy atmosphere takes the famous navy to another level. Attention to the neckline in the back (remember that, like a bib) and waist gives all the effortless sensuality to take you from sea to asphalt beautiful, light and free!”
so in other words, we were basically seeing a collection that one could, conceivably, use as an entire summer, or perhaps vacation wardrobe. true, it was probably a little dense on the sleeveless nipped-in waist/full-skirted late fifties/early sixties-style frocks, and maybe a little light on the separates, but really, ms. ciribelli certainly tried to mix things up, showing tailored cigarette trousers, shorts, and even little cropped jackets, as well.
in the end, as i’ve suggested, this isn’t one of those shows to leave you breathless if you’re looking for something new. but as i’ve also said in the past, sometimes we just want really good, classic stapes–and do you know how hard it can sometimes be to find them, when you’re looking and everyone has to be ‘different’ or ‘special’ (and you just want a basic striped top, say)? so to me, that makes this range particularly compelling, as does the manner in which the designer so wholeheartedly grasped the vibe of the season. really, even if you’re not a beach person, doesn’t it make you want to go, at least a little?
(view the fashion show video here)