(images via portugal confidential)
so yeah, we’re still trying to move quickly as we can through the designers at lisbon fashion week, not so much because we don’t love them as i don’t really want to get caught up in that trap of not being able to say anything on specific collections, we’ve fallen so far behind, yannow? instead, we’ll just try to keep up the fluid pace with our handful of favourite portuguese designers, like alexandra moura, who regularly brings it with her work (see a/w 2010, a/w 2012, s/s 2013).
and if nothing can beat the awesomeness of her beautiful, asian-inflected, poem-inspired spring range, then for the a/w 2013 season, i’m still going to give the designer some great good credit for trying, with clothes (mostly dresses, in slim pencil shapes that usually cut off around the knee and hugged close to the form without pushing too hard to define it) that still hewed on the asiatic side.
ms. moura’s inspiration (which was actually really lengthy), came from (trans.) “the ‘4’ square of 4th Dimension,” she told daily moda lisboa, adding that “(i)t is a collection composed of straight, simple lines and tubes. A clean silhouette that communicates with the simplicity and organization of a geometric shape – the square. This collection is the important raw material that helps to extol the simple ways of modeling the human body itself. The slogans are comfort, simplicity, like a second skin wearing the new human being, a human being who already has their reality in a fourth dimension, or beyond.”
“The origin of all,” (still trans.) she continued, “the animal side, tribal, natural, makes us travel in the shapes and textures … like a new human race, if it were a new genetic code, to be born again and start all over again. The accessories bring a strong aesthetic and symbolic use of the golden metal that takes us back to gold. The symbolism that brings to this collection is the origin of everything, the beauty and protection.” get all of that? and no, i really don’t think i did either, but i like that the designer pushes us, and it reminds me of something threeASFOUR would probably do in one of their shows.
alors. “There were coordinated prints and colour blocks with special attention to dark blue, black, beige and mustard,” explained the portuguese site maxima of the colour palette, to which i’d also like to add that there was a lovely watery sky blue and pale salmon pink, while portugal confidential explained that the collection’s textiles included neoprene, faux crocodile skin, cotton, mohair, mesh, devore, and velvet, and the designer employed ruching, ruffles, and some origami details to help play up the texture.
ultimately, although certainly the soliloquy of ms. moura’s might lead one to think that the clothes were too avant garde, i’d say they weren’t at all–quite the opposite, in fact, thanks to some pretty blouses, menswear-style shirting, textured jackets, and a couple of great velvet dresses (including my personal favourite option, that colour-blocked cobalt-and-black sleeveless velvet cocktail frock), i’d say there were a lot of decent staples here, that maybe didn’t trade in on some of her more adventurous leanings of past seasons, but nevertheless offered up enough excellence that we fans of her should all of us be pleased aplenty until she’s ready to offer us a new collection for spring (see additional runway snaps at lab daily).
(watch the full fashion show video here)