japan fashion week: fur fur

(images via mbfwj)

what’s that you say? that it’s always a good time with japanese label fur fur (ファーファー)? well, right i think you are, as i’ve stated in the past (see a/w 2010, s/s 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) that designer sachiko taguchi is almost more of an artist than a designer (at least in terms of the way we tend to think of these words), but then, she’s apparently been replaced by creative director koichi chida, with a new designer, aya furuhashi, for the a/w 2013 season!

i don’t know when this happened, and it apparently makes me a bad fur fur, fan, but i’m also very upset. and while i’ll admit to being intrigued by the fall range (albeit mostly because i thought the former designer was behind it, and trying to push our perceptions further in some manner, though i’ll also still be willing to give it a chance here, i think), i can’t help but wonder now a bit if this just means more commercialism for the brand.

well, sigh. i guess we know the creative director remains the same, but then, i’m not sure how much of a hand he’s had in things all along. but, nevertheless, let’s try to move along and discuss the present work, yes? with heavy hearts, i know. anyway, this time around, for the japan fashion week presentation staged at the laforet museum in the harajuku district, fashion snap relayed that guests heard (trans.) “only the sound of the pianist’s ‘C’,” as the clothes–mostly in monochromatic black–filed out.

anyway, as the excellent japanese site fashion press was to explain it, the fall range was entitled ‘spun storage in the dark,’ and with the sole piano note being played, was accompanied by a poetry reading, which apparently unfolded into the meaning of so many slight variations on the black (usually sleeveless) dress, which was inspired by a (trans.) “(r)andom memory of the past, and more romantic than spinning a whole story.”

yeah. i’m not really sure. but on the whole, i guess i did like the clothes, found them classic and wearable, if i missed some of the quirk and verve of the past. anyway, further trying to clarify the theme was the japanese apparel-web, reporting that the (trans.) “themes this time [are] representing  various events and the feeling of light in the dark. The first look, a simple V-neck long dress [featured] wool flannel material compression. Based on this, the look that followed, issued a change by changing the size of the cloth of different materials which were attached to the hem of the skirt and waist.”

in other words, i guess, we were seeing the representation of items in the dark, the way differing materials could interpret them, as well as shadows and movements, and they manner in which they could be rendered entirely different based on these things–change in texture, silhouette, and even shade? that’s my best guess, anyway, as we did tend to see slight variations that felt like the shifting of the subtle light in the dark, trailing shadows cascading like dark bridal trains off the oftentimes beautifully made simple, dark garments.

and in their typically uninformed fashion (though i usually just have to include them as a representation of a new perspective, and mostly to laugh at), wwd stumbled in to remark that “(i)n keeping with Tokyo’s penchant for black this season, Koichi Chida kept things almost entirely monochromatic at Fur Fur. He also stuck to a very singular theme, opening with a series of long black tank dresses with minimal variation. That pattern continued throughout the show, as he moved to lace-trim slip dresses and sculptural pieces made from masses of tulle.”

“The variety didn’t come until later in the show, when Chida turned out some looks featuring drop-crotch pants and a jacket with sleeves reminiscent of a kimono. There were also some body-conscious dresses paired with motorcycle jackets,” they concluded, and i’m going to have to give them a good hard side-eye for their comment about black, given how awash the city usually is in that colour. but that just shows how much these self-professed experts tend to know about some cities. hmpf. and hmpf too, to mr. chida, though on the whole, i’m going to have to give the clothes a decent letter grade. but fur fur is on notice. and duuuude, someone seriously needs to give sachiko taguchi a job!!!!


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