ukrainian fashion week: lilia poustovit

(images via ufw)

okay, okay. so while i am sorry that we’re not yet finished up with our fall discussion on kiev’s ukrainian fashion week (though we are rounding the corner into the home stretch), i can feel a little bit better on the subject of the a/w 2013 lilia poustovit (Лилия Пустовит) show, as it was just recently exhibited as part of one of moscow’s many fashion weeks. so! it’s new in russia, and by waiting, we have some additional background information, so, like, there!

anyway, although of late i’ve been trying to included some of my favourites up front, lest we run out of time on the back end, as this site is inclined to do, i have to admit to still kind of squirreling away a handful of those i want to close things out with, which of course would include the work of ms. poustovit, who has long (see a/w 2010, s/s 2011, a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013) been a ukrainian highlight (at least, for me!).

and for the upcoming fall, we saw more of those breezily feminine, hipster-ly dresses the designer does so well, although her prints were a lot more muted than she’s been churning out the last couple of seasons, with more subtle-print geometrics, eyelet lace, and plenty of polka dots being the main focus–and the ukrainian site hochu termed them an (trans.) “incredible combination of peas and a maze grid and stars”–as well as a particularly vibrant shade of tomato red.

in terms of ms. poustovit’s inspiration for the upcoming winter (though you wouldn’t necessarily know the season to look at it, given the relative lightness of the pieces), the russian site korrespondent explained that (trans.) “(t)he main source of inspiration for the new collection are the silhouettes characteristic of fashion from the late 60’s and early 70’s, and the image of a young Françoise Hardy. ‘It is sincere, direct, fully confident, and with enough romance for a young woman with an impeccable sense of style,’ according to the description of the collection.”

well. ms. hardy is pretty much the requisite muse for the hipster-types these days, and if i had to list all of the labels drawing from her, i’d run out of room, so suffice it to say that it fits (if feels awfully western-leaning for this designer). anyway, on the technical end of the spectrum, the ufw site related that “(t)he collection is created in contemporary technological materials like patinated silk and cotton crepe, cashemere and jersey.”

elsewhere, regarding the palette, the russian site fashiony pointed out that the designer broke the mold by the aforementioned jazzy warm hues like tomato, although they did accurately note that there was a more reddish shade as well, while the rest of the palette included some of the basic ukrainian-beloved neutrals (black, white, navy, gray) and the pastel hues we’ve been seeing basically everywhere for the spring, like ballerina pink, powdery blue, and mint.

as ever, the focus was on the dress, and it was characteristically lightweight, although there was some outerwear action to keep her girls warm in the winter months, and the russian website buro 24/7 accurately, methinks, reflected that the designer seemed to want to play a certain ‘masculine vs. feminine’ game of balancing out her softly feminine dresses with heavy, rugged boots. to me it also feels like here ms. poustovit is playing edgy, but whatever, we’re used to that out of her.

alors. ever ones to muse at length on the deeper meanings of the clothes, the ukrainian blog be in trend commented that the designer represents (trans.) “one of the last and only romantics on the Ukrainian stage. Who else creates quivering below-the-knee length dresses with delicate sleeves barely covering maiden shoulders with a short flounce, which flutters when walking? Who else makes the female silhouette with so many fragile, seemingly completely opposite in meaning elements: low waists, straight cut dresses, combining femininity with coarse shoes?”

so they’re probably right. but i think it’s a good bet for the designer, especially with dresses a particularly ‘gotta have it’ item at the moment. and as ever, she really excels at remembering to include different lengths, sleeve types, etc., so that all the different body types can find something to enjoy on her catwalk. she’s more of a realist than one of kiev’s avant garde, but that’s okay, too, and i’ve always liked the way she manages to mix her traditionally ukrainian motifs with more contemporary silhouettes, though i must admit if i’m issuing any critique, it was that i missed some of her more standout prints this season, much as i did love all the polka dots just the same (see some additional runway images–both from the moscow fashion show–at vogue and look at me).

(watch the show video here)


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