japan fashion week: christian dada

(images via wwd)

for some reason, utterly unbeknownst to me, because much as i like the line, i find there’s so much more to love that much greater at tokyo’s japan fashion week, all the kids are allllll bloody over christian dada (クリスチャン ダダ),  so here we are for another round, version: a/w 2013. i mean, i will admit to liking designer masanori morikawa’s dark aesthetic (see a/w 2011, s/s 2012, a/w 2012), but save for many one or two of those elaborately embroidered futurist-cum-goth creations, i was less impressed than most of the critics seemed to be with the range, titled, according to fashion snap, ‘phoenix’.

anyway, the collection was part and parcel with christian dada’s collaboration with several different labels (as far as i can tell) for the various accessories), and the excellent japanese site fashion press explained that it was (trans.) “(i)nspired by this bird [the phoenix, which is a] mix of a variety of animals, such as fish, chicken beak, and a tail, and would fall into the design of the ‘fusion’ of everything.” so i suppose we’re given to understand that these collabs are part of the melange aesthetic that was wrapped up in the theme and the pieces themselves.

yes? methinks it goes something like that. anyway, they rattled on to point out that (again, trans.) “(t)he coluor palette is monotone in the [middle of the show], along with a bright red colour, blue, yellow, etc,” although in terms of womenswear, things were executed largely in black and white, and in various animal-based materials (including, of course plenty of leather action, and of all things, goat fur). an “elegant embroidery motif that indirectly expresses the image of the phoenix was repeated throughout the collection,” (trans.) for embellishment, explained apparel web.

and on the more surface-level analysis, we heard from wwd, prattling along that “designer Masanori Morikawa often veers into macabre territory and this season was no exception. A choir sang an eerie tune to accompany the mostly black lineup of sharp shirts, pants and coats featuring rich embroidery or lace-up detailing. Sportier items included a few quilted garments and a shorts-kilt hybrid for men.”

“While black dominated the show; a few closing looks in gold, vibrant red and blue made it easier to see the intricate nature of Morikawa’s handiwork. Feathered platform shoes provided additional dramatic impact,” they concluded, although i was less impressed by the shoes, feeling that we’d seen some variation on the idea at the alexander mcqueen s/s 2010 and nina ricci a/w 2009, but i don’t make the rules, and much as i’d like to see alice auaa be the favoured moody/gothic house of japan, i have no idea how the fashionies roll, and instead it’s dada. so let’s try to enjoy it (check out some additional runway images at style & tokyo fashion diaries).

(see the full fashion show video here)

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