spfw: colcci

(images via ffw)

we haven’t been following the more high street-style brand of são paulo fashion week, colcci, as regularly as we have some of our favourite brazilian labels (see s/s 2011, s/s 2012, s/s 2013, a/w 2013), largely because i tend to be more in favour of covering the actual high fashion-type houses (after all, if we did everything, we’d be too bloody swamped to move from season to season), but then, it has been fun to check in with them now and again, if in part for the contrast they provide when juxtaposed with some of the more elite stuff spfw otherwise offers.

that, and it often seems like these brands have more cash money to spend on things like models, as we know vicky’s secret’s laughable, er, ‘fashion show’ bags some of the biggest names in the industry to turn their crotches into bicycle seats and carry fake barbells (oh, the horror!), and it’s always a rather interesting sociological experiment, to me at least, to see how these clothes wear on girls who have donned the best of the best. and you might not believe me, but it really is a test, of sorts.

after all, if we can’t necessarily try the clothes on ourselves, or inspect them, it can be helpful to kind of ‘read’ them on the same girls, and although i’m aware these high-street brands prefer the haute affiliation they get by casting some of the same models the top tier ateliers do, i actually see it as more of a, say, how does this colcci piece read on aline weber, carolina thaler, or daiane conterato, all of whom walked some of the biggest paris shows this season (or last, rather, i keep forgetting we’re in spring already!)–and while colcci is never going to be the biggest or brightest, the clothes for s/s 2014 certainly looked good.

right then, so let’s meander no longer and get to the point of the clothes, yes? “The idea of a geometric garden,” (trans.) was the theme for this season,” explained ffw, whilst adding that this manifested “in a mixture of prints, of which even the florals are based on geometric shapes. Drawings with Islamic references, stripes and transparencies are included…alongside combinations of textures all in one piece.”

the resulting vibe landed somewhere between mod and modern, kind of reminding me of canadian label joe fresh in its desire to be at once hip, chic, fashion-forward, and yet affordable, although i tend to think colcci probably doesn’t rival joe fresh in the price department (as not many can–it’s that bloody inexpensive), and i’d say the aesthetic felt as though we’d taken contemporary pieces and shuffled them together with both some sixties and mid-nineties nostalgia for a look that was one of my personal favourites of colcci’s as yet.

alors. according to the brazilian website pure trend, we saw (trans.) “many prints, vibrant colours and mixed shapes with sporty tailoring.” they pointed out that there were some boyish elements to the womenswear, such as pleated pants, while those cropped tops knotted at the center front line were reaching back to the early nineties, as bomber jackets and biker shorts helped play up the sportiness of the range (and i’d say thanks to the geometrics and colours there was a bit of california surfer girl thrown into the mix, as well).

as for the basic details, the excellent brazilian site closet online reported that (trans.) “(P)resent in the colour chart were black, white, yellow, green and blue. The prints were Islamic-inspired and there was a mixture of graphics, stripes and curlicues,” as they finally noted that “(t)he mix of fabrics and textures gave the final touch, adding richness, identity and charm to spare,” the former of which included plenty of denim and leather, as well as cotton, tricoline, and silk gazar.

elsewhere, we heard elle opining that (trans.) “(u)nder the theme Geometric Garden, the summer thread was urban and commercial for the brand, the collection is light and young with the right colours and energetic, funky cuts and a mix of geometric prints…The way of tailoring with jeanswear was not left out and can be seen in blazers, bomber jackets and elegant pants – some even made of leather!” as chic gloria kalil was less impressed, though they did praise the (trans.) “mostly mismatched stripes.”

and, finally, there was harper’s bazaar weighing in with a shriek that the (trans.) “smooth textures give relief to most pieces, the looks in monochrome white, emerald green or yolk yellow. Cropped tops, jackets and biker stripes intrude between bombers and elongated vests elongated…that are grouped on the Colcci catwalk. The ideas are repeated, it is true, but the energy of the show and the mix of prints of all shapes and colours secures the fun to end. Alright, young and fun, fun, fun!” to be sure. and really, what else could we want?

(check out the show video here)


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