(images via portugal confidential)
while we have followed the work of portuguese designer dino alves for a couple of seasons (see f/w 2012 & s/s 2013) at lisbon fashion week now, i can’t say as yet that i’ve deciphered what he’s really about, as one minute, it seems to be print and colour, the next structure and form. and for his f/w 2013 presentation, titled ‘next page’, i’d say it was a little bit of both, but it looked good (which is to say, not that they don’t always, but i think this one rivaled last fall’s as my favourite of his yet).
right, then. so according to the designer himself, when queried about his theme for the upcoming season by daily moda lisboa (trans.), “(i)t inspired me to want to look at people with their style and looks and read a text, a different story in each one. With their behaviors, thoughts, objects that they have, clothes they wear, they can tell us this story, unlike any other, when lived with integrity and uniqueness. Many dresses, some coats, and other outerwear in neutral colours mixed with others, such as eggplant. Fitted silhouettes, pleats and details that refer to pages and books, written or blank for us to tell our stories.”
and so, explaining a little more succinctly that the fall collection’s sotry was about an open book, vogue reported that (trans.) “(a)mong straight and fluid cuts, [the designer] used folds, pleats and overlapping, creating the effect of bellows like the pages of a book. Applications such as the print with letters come to life as they dominate the black, white, eggplant and strong sand,” and they summed up by noting that the collection was “(f)or a feminine woman, but at the same time conservative.”
i wouldn’t say that i was particularly concerned about the conservatism of the show, as we had some sheer blouse action and a deep gray printed skirt with layers of raspberry-lined slits that crept along the thigh into practically panty territory, among other offerings, but thanks to some of those very pretty shifts with their ruffled sleeves, or the pale blue, black, and white colour-blocked illusion dress (similar to one by stella mccartney that kate winslet liked so much she wore a couple versions of it), but anyway, the portuguese site maxima also helpfully noted that the patterns were actually (trans.) “printed with meaningless letters that represent the history of each person.”
i liked that. and i equally liked the portuguese site activa‘s summing up of the colour palette, as they noted that (trans.) “(i)n an evolution of intensity, the designer chose a palette ranging from creams, caramels, and the sensuality of bordeaux to the unavoidable black,” as portugal confidential explained that mr. alves worked with such materials as denim, cotton chambray, knitted silk, lycra, sarja wool, satin silk, and peachskin. there seemed to be a little bit of chiffon in there, as well, and although there are obviously quite a few variegated textiles in the mix, i liked the way, save for the sheer pieces, that it blended so well together, being less about weight and texture than it was the actual treatment of the materials.
anyway, although as with a lot of the collections it seems we’re seeing these days, due to the fairly strict limitation of the palette and cuts, i wouldn’t say there’s a ton of versatility in terms of looking at this range as a full wardrobe, but i do think that there could be quite a lot of wiggle room in terms of lifestyle–in that the looks could be played up or down, in terms of work or play-friendliness, and although those aforementioned choices probably want to stay in the latter category, a lot of the menswear-type shirting, the outerwear, and the sans-slitted shifts could find their way into rotation in an assortment of different settings (check out some additional runway images at lab daily).
(see the full show in action here)