japan fashion week: anrealage

(images via style)

though we have only been following designer kunihiko morinaga’s atelier of anrealage (アンリアレイジ) a relatively short number of seasons (see s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), i’d say i have no problem in banding on to the popular train of thought regarding his work, and loudly proclaiming that i understand what all the fuss is about. after all, pretty much every season i think i can say with some confidence we all know we’re in for something special.

his collections usually end up a mash up of technological advancement and high fashion, resulting in something that we might see in a science-y magazine (don’t you think? particularly with this one), although before we actually delve into that business, i want to take this moment to point out that the models sported the same kind of play-doh-y hair we first saw at aleksey zalevskiy (s/s 2011) and more recently chez givenchy (a/w 2013). so i’m putting a pin in this as a possible new trend.

but anyway, the concept, this time ’round. the range, held at tokyo’s ebisu garden hall, according to the japanese site fashion snap, was called ‘colours,’ or ‘colour,’ and began with pieces in black and white, which eventually transitioned to solely monochromatic white looks, kind of like those worlds in crayon commericials, which the kids got to transform as they were suddenly granted access to some fabulous crayola action.

and that was pretty much the way the clothes themselves transitioned, too, with apparel web explaining that the designer had dyed the pieces with (trans.) “a special dye that changes colour when bathed in light, invented under the guise that transformer colour will move.” they did note, though, that while this could differentiate the tones of the pieces, the prints themselves stayed intact, as we could see them under the changing lights retaining their looks, as a base.

and on the more superficial level, as ever, we heard wwd summing things up in their fashion, announcing that “Kunihiko Morinaga is known for his innovative collections based around a singular concept. His fall show started with a series of looks in black, white and gray prints, with color slowly appearing in the form of bright aqua polka dots and pink flowers.”

“Halfway through,” they prattled on, “Morinaga surprised his audience by sending two models in what looked like stark white lab coats on to a revolving platform in the center of the stage. As the platform turned and the lights came up, the colors of the clothes changed, morphing into candy-hued pastels reminiscent of Easter eggs. This technique carried on for the rest of the show, which capped off with a few dramatic pieces in layered lace.”

and as ever rather detail-oriented, the excellent fashion press noted that (another reason to want to own these clothes), they should change when exposed to sun or different lights for extended periods, while adding that (trans.) “(w)hite noise, such as dust storms that flow, came early in the show, with completely black and white monotone looks that followed. There was also some completely monochromatic patchwork in the archive. Only some polka dots, zigzag, checks, and camouflage [as prints, and], the pattern is gradually coloured, while the collection will continue to increase the number of colours gradually.” maybe in the end we could argue it was more about textiles than fashion, but nevertheless, it was absolutely intriguing, and i’m glad to have seen it, for the cuts themselves. i mean, no boring shirtdresses here, as a western designer might have done.

(watch the complete fashion show video here)


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