japan fashion week: yasutoshi ezumi

(images via mbfwj)

we’ve been following the work of young designer yasutoshi ezumi (ヤストシ エズミ) consistently since he started up on the tokyo catwalks at japan fashion week (see s/s 2012, a/w 2012, s/s 2013), and while i can’t exactly say i’ve got a lockdown as to what his, yannow, like, ‘thing’ is, i’d generally wish to call it more ‘pretty’, ‘wearable’, and ‘inoffensive’ than some of his peers, who tend to like to shake up our expectations in all of these regards.

in other words, the designer likes to execute quirks on the basics, something he rendered once again at the shibuya hikarie hikari hall during his a/w 2013 presentation, although, much like the japanese like to do in contrast to some of the more overt themes we get in the west, he mixed things up by tossing in a rather complex theme. titling the show ‘anima,’ tokyo add explained that (trans.) “(m)asculine and feminine. Lines and curves. Black and red. Men and women,” were all ideas at play here.

the concept was at least in part based on a carl jung philosophy, with the tagline for the collection that (again, trans.) (y)”ou can mix anything to the contrary, it represents the psychology of the process of self-realization,” while the designer worked with the aforementioned colours to evoke the relationship between men and women, and floral motifs found throughout are meant to spark the image of women and femininity, though the straight lines in the show are apparently to symbolize its opposite (the masculine).

however, on the other hand, in their characteristically more straightforward ‘all about the clothes’ approach, wwd simply offered that “Yasutoshi Ezumi delivered a mix of tailored pieces and cozy knitwear for fall. The opening look featured a long black jacket over pants, evoking a tuxedo feel. Variations on jackets and vests continued, culminating in a dramatic embroidered coat with voluminous proportions similar to a kimono. Some of the pieces featuring a floral jacquard were standouts.”

then, according to the excellent japanese site fashion press, which tried to make things a bit clearer, under mr. jung’s philosophy (trans.), “the image of women is that of the unconscious of men,” while the designer’s idea for the fall was to integrate the “(f)eminine and masculine incorporating elements of the two contradictory [images], in an attempt to form a single personality.” yeow. while you think on that, know that it was rendered, as per the norm, in quite wearable separates and some very lovely dresses.

there was a lot that was flowing in this collection, and layering was (and is) quite important to the designer, and although there were a lot of those longer-in-front-style floaty cardigans (often belted) that have been circulating a few seasons now, and which were very nice, i was more attracted to the tailored looks in the range, such as the exquisitely sharp menswear-style trenches (a deep v-necked four-button style with a contrast collar in particular), as well as the trousers and the suiting-style pieces, which had that classical appeal i tend to like out of this designer–with that aforementioned requisite little twist, of course (see some additional catwalk images at fashion snap, style, and japanese streets).

(watch the full runway video here)

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